From: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com (klr650-digest) To: klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: klr650-digest V2 #102 Reply-To: klr650 Sender: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk klr650-digest Monday, March 8 1999 Volume 02 : Number 102 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 08:31:58 -0700 From: "Tim Bernard" Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Moab weather Got a 435 do not need a tail wind. The weather in Moab depends upon the time of day. Fred---Do you think the Dug-Out Ranch road to ---- Basin will be open by April 25 or will have to go over & back via elephant. Why don't you join us? Happy Trails - -----Original Message----- From: Fred Hink To: K650dsn@aol.com ; klr650@lists.xmission.com Date: Friday, March 05, 1999 5:59 PM Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Moab weather > >-----Original Message----- >From: K650dsn@aol.com >To: klr650@lists.xmission.com >Date: Friday, March 05, 1999 10:51 AM >Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Moab weather > > >>In a message dated 3/5/99 2:20:29 PM Mountain Standard Time, >>magier@bentonrea.com writes: >> >><< I'm trying >> to figure out just what to bring (gotta pack light - traveling by KLR) >> >> >>So do I. Travelling by DR350 and praying for a tail wind. >> >>Gino >> >> > >Hey Gino, > >I have a Trail 90 you can use if you really want to travel light. Besides >the tailwind you'll need some good downhills too. > >Fred > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 10:52:21 -0500 From: Cameron Cole Subject: RE: (klr650) More RIP KLR We certainly have two different positions on this issue. The driver didn't mean to hit me. He had no malice towards me. It was a mistake and they are made every single day. I asked the driver later what he thought of the accident. He apologized and said he was sorry for yelling at me. He stated he was shaken up and scared when he saw me fly over the car. I certainly believe him since I would be in the same situation. He simply over-reacted causing me to over-react. Most people are good people, but they make mistakes. He learned not to follow motorcyclist too closely and I learned not to slow too fast when cars are behind me. His insurance company is flipping the bill for everything no questions asked (I know so I won't sue). Sure I am in pain, but no more so than when I high sided that curve a few months back. I'll heal... the shoulder will be stiff... and all will be well. Besides, the last thing I want to do is make another lawyer more money. C. > -----Original Message----- > From: Jeff & Lisa Walker [mailto:jlwalk@prodigy.net] > Sent: Monday, March 08, 1999 10:41 AM > To: Cameron Cole; KLR650@lists.xmission.com > Subject: Re: (klr650) More RIP KLR > > > > > >I don't think what was asked was inappropriate or out-of-line. I can > >understand how the question would be misconstrued though. > > > >Whenever you are in an accident lets all hope we walk away a > little wiser > >regardless of the situation. I think that was what he was > asking. We can > >all learn more and while I do consider the fact that I > slowed too fast a > >mistake. I personally believe the other guy was definitely > in the wrong. > > > >Afterwards, I did lose my temper (partially from the > accident and partially > >from his extremely poor attitude). When I said I hit the > guy, I was being > >quite literal (I still have a mean left hook). I went way > too far and > >should have walked away from the imbecile. I have no plans > on suing him > >since accidents happen and he is paying for medical, motorcycle, and > >equipment. > > > >IMHO, C. > > > > > Sorry to hear about your wreck and hope you heal up fast, > since spring and > summer riding is coming up. > > You might want to reconsider not suing him for a couple of > reasons. First > and foremost, what if you don't heal up properly? My wife > was rear ended in > our car 3 years ago, and she still has back problems, and > likely always > will. What's that worth to you for having a lifetime of pain for a > preventable accident? Say you're going to physical therapy > for over a year. > At some point, the insurance company won't want to pay > anymore, and will > want to settle. My next point is that you owe it to all of > us other riders. > One more lawsuit for money will get the insurance company's > attention, and > insurance companies have strong lobbies. If the insurance > company gets > tired of extraordinary medical expenses and large > settlements, then maybe > they will push legislation for increased driver training, and thereby > prevent car vs. bike accidents in the future. Its a dream, > but its still > within the realm of reality. > > Here in WA, riders aren't required to even have insurance, since legal > precedence shows that the courts always side with the rider > when it comes to > accidents, even when the rider was at fault. I carried liability and > medical insurance last year anyway, but then I realized that it was > pointless, since it wasn't required, and the max medical > coverage that my > company would give was $5000, for rider and passenger. I > decided that money > would be better spent on a life insurance policy for my family. > > Hey, if the issue ever comes up that you struck the driver, > just say that > you were suffering from post traumatic stress. And just > remember to admit > nothing, deny everything, and make counter accusations. > > Jeff > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 09:07:27 -0700 From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Moab weather - -----Original Message----- From: Tim Bernard To: Fred Hink ; K650dsn@aol.com ; klr650@lists.xmission.com Date: Monday, March 08, 1999 1:43 AM Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Moab weather >Got a 435 do not need a tail wind. The weather in Moab depends upon the time >of day. >Fred---Do you think the Dug-Out Ranch road to ---- Basin will be open by >April 25 or will have to go over & back via elephant. Why don't you join us? Hi Tim, We have had less than average snowfall here and there is even less down south of Moab. I would imagine that the snow would be gone there by then. Which "Basin" are you asking about? The road from Dugout to Beef Basin or Dugout to Lockhart Basin? If you go over to Beef Basin then you will have to go up and over Elephant Hill. The Beef Basin to Lockhart Basin to Moab would be a very long day. Elephant Hill and Lockhart would be quite a bit shorter and just as nice, still a long day. If you do the loop in the "Needles" I would highly recommend doing the Joint Trail (hiking) while you are out there. You probably already know this but you will need a street legal bike and a park pass to do Elephant Hill. Count me in, this sounds fun. Who is going? Fred ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 11:10:30 EST From: FTabor231@aol.com Subject: (klr650) (no subject) unsubscribeklr650 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 08:32:18 -0800 From: "Arne Larsen" Subject: (klr650) Tengai input needed Hi all, I've been going through the archives about the Tengai. After about 100 postings (and around 1:30 am) I had to pack it in... had to get up early to get the kids ready and off to school you know. Well, a lot of the threads had to do with the better front brake and footpegs. It also seemed like this was a newer discussion topic, with new owners trying to ferret each other out. My reason for all this: I may be able to get a hold of a 1990 KLR650 Tengai. The add reads as follows - 12,000 kms (around 8,000 miles), new Metzler Sahara tires, new Supertrapp (I don't know which model), new battery, like new, $4,000 (which would be around $2,750 US). 1. Is this a fair price? 2. What can ANYONE tell me about the Tengai.? Compare it to let's say... oh, the standard KLR. Weight comparison? Handling? Dimensions? I read the front travel is less. Is it a lot less? Can this be rectified? Would a person want to rectify this? I could tell that a few people were wanting to convert their KLR's with Tengai front ends... I guess that this means that the Tengai front end is O.K.? If I go looking at this bike is there anything specific I should watch out for? I like the looks of it (from pictures I was able to find). It's kind of got that Translap/F650 Euro flavor. Any help here would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks all. Arne Larsen ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Mar 1999 03:40:53 +1000 From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) [NKRL] Hydraulic Valves PAT_HENSLEY@HP-USA-om32.om.hp.com wrote: [...] > Can anyone point me to a web site or explain to me why Hydraulic valves never > need adjusting and how they 'self' adjust? I don't know of any sites, but a look into some old Chev or Ford shop manual will give you an idea of how they work. Old pressure keeps the valve clearance at 0. > Also, why don't all bike have Hydraulic valves since they are so wonderful? They are also more complicated and take up some more room in the head. The oil damping built in to the tappets leads to some imprecision in the valve timing. Oil galleries in the head become more important than usual. > And please don't just tell me they cost more and that's why. The NightHawk 750 > was a cheap bike with Hydraulic valves. There must be a performance reason > also. Ah, the RC17 motor. Nice design, shame about the rest of the Nighthawk. I have a CBX750F which runs a sportier version of that motor. The hydraulic tappets in these are better described as "hydraulic lash adjusters". The RC17 tappets don't follow the profile of the cam like in old pushrod cars. For those with some knowledge of the OHC system in the old L series Datsun/Nissan motors, the Honda hydraulic tappets are in the location where Datsun put their manual adjusters. The cam operates on, above and near one end of a horizontal lever, the lash pad. Under one end of the lash pad is the valve stem. Under the other is the adjuster. This system is not a lot taller than a conventional bucket-and shim OHC arrangement. I think that Honda went hydraulic to cushion some of the rapid lift that the cams profiles have. The cam timing in the RC17 is quite modest, but it gets to full lift fairly quick and stays there a long time. Hydraulics also tend to be quieter because of the zero clearance they run at (when they are working properly). Hydraulic tappets can also act as rev limiters. Under high rev stress, they can leak down oil and reduce lift, or "pump up" and not quite allow the valves to close. Generally, RC17 hydraulic tappets are pretty reliable. My bike has over 90,000km on it, and while the tappets are ticking a bit now, it's nothing really bad yet. That's pretty good for something that was a hot sports bike 15 years ago on its release. The best part is that until the camchain wears out, no service dept knucklehead need lift the camcover and stuff up your clearances because his girlfriend dumped him or something. Some problems can arise when the engine oil pressure is not to spec, or wear in the tappets is out of spec. Replacing noisy RC17 tappets is an expensive business at over $100 aussie _each_, and you might want all 16 replaced in a RC17 head. You could buy a complete but ratty RC17 for that much. Mister_T Never seen a CBX750F (RC17) before? Check out: http://replicant.apana.org.au/~viking/bikes/TeamRC17/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Mar 1999 02:26:23 +1000 From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) Battery Question TRA1115@aol.com wrote: > How long should the stock battery last?? I'm sure alot ot things can cause a > battery to have a "long" or "short" life, but is there any rule of thumb for > changing?? My original 600-B1 battery lasted 7 years. The replacement only lasted 4 years due to lack of use. Rule of thumb for charging is 10% of the Ah rating of the battery. For the 14Ah battery in the B1, 1.4A is ok. Many small chargers I've seen do 1A, so that is fine. Mister_T ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Mar 1999 02:44:48 +1000 From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) Fuse Block Wire Gauge Jeff & Lisa Walker wrote: [...] > You yourself gave the evidence that your system is flowing more amps through > it, you said that your lights burn brighter. If the voltage stays the same, But does it? If the circuit has less resistance, won't you have more volts available at the globe for the same current? Of course, the resistance of the globe might not be linear with temp (brightness) anyway, so that complicates things a bit. I would have thought the idea of heavier wire was to reduce voltage drop rather than increase current capacity. > then the only thing that can cause this is a change in current, which means > less resistance, and more amps. That is my only point, and it is > irrefutable. I already said that I was guessing that the charging system > was insuffecient, based on how much my lights dim at idle. Just about any bike or car will have insufficient charging at idle with lights on. Mister_T ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 11:47:03 -0500 From: mjv2@psu.edu (Mark) Subject: Re: (klr650) Tengai input needed Arne Wrote: >My reason for all this: I may be able to get a hold of a 1990 KLR650 >Tengai. The add reads as follows - 12,000 kms (around 8,000 miles), new >Metzler Sahara tires, new Supertrapp (I don't know which model), new >battery, like new, $4,000 (which would be around $2,750 US). > >1. Is this a fair price? No, but $2,000 USD would be. I paid $1,200 USD for my B2 w/ 7K miles when I bought it over a year and a half ago. >2. What can ANYONE tell me about the Tengai.? Compare it to let's say... >oh, the standard KLR. Weight comparison? Handling? Dimensions? Weighs about the same. A little less squirly than my A2, same chassis, same engine, etc. The Tengai was mainly just a trim package that was $400 than the standard KLR. >I read the front travel is less. Is it a lot less? Can this be rectified? >Would a person want to rectify this? It's about 1" lower than the standard KLR. I put Progressive springs in and it seems higher now (less sag). Much better ride now. >I could tell that a few people were >wanting to convert their KLR's with Tengai front ends... I guess that this >means that the Tengai front end is O.K.? It's awesome. Has 20mm larger rotor and a two piston caliper. Plus it has mounting tabs for the lower front fender and the decorative but useless "disc and caliper protector". > >If I go looking at this bike is there anything specific I should watch out >for? Nothing that you wouldn't look for when buying a standard KLR. > >I like the looks of it (from pictures I was able to find). It's kind of got >that Translap/F650 Euro flavor. I love its looks. That's why I bought a standard KLR so I can preserve the Tengai. It sure looks like less of a pig than the bloated, overweight TransAlp. (I do like the TransAlp BTW, but I'd never take it to the places my Tengai has seen) Mark B2 "The Poser" (The bike formerly known as the woods warrior) A2 "The Woods Warrior" ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 09:21:56 -0800 From: "Jack A. Morton" Subject: (klr650) Unsubscribe Unsubscribe ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 13:12:52 -0500 (EST) From: Eric Winslow Subject: (klr650) New (used) KLR! Well, after spending much time thinking about getting a KLR, one showed up in Saturday's classifieds. I checked it out, rode it, and bought it. It's a '94 with 14,000 miles on it. Very clean. It had obviously not been ridden too much in the dirt. I can't wait to get it all legal and take it home for good. It's all stock, except for the tires perhaps. It has a brand new set of Metzler Enduros on it. Anybody have experience with these tires? What happened to those '94's? Did they get hit with the ugly stick, or what? No offence to those that love those colors. I'm sure I'll grow to love it, too. That color scheme of aqua, light purple and white is something else, though. The colors obviously didn't upset me too much. I didn't hesitate buying it. At least I'll be visible. Just wanted to share my good news. Sincerely, Eric (dual-purposing again) Winslow '94 KLR650 '93 Suzuki GS500E ------------------------------ End of klr650-digest V2 #102 ****************************