From: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com (klr650-digest) To: klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: klr650-digest V2 #114 Reply-To: klr650 Sender: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk klr650-digest Thursday, March 11 1999 Volume 02 : Number 114 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 08:09:54 PST From: "Paul Christenson" Subject: Re: (klr650) Dimensionally Challenged >I hope the collective group wisdom can help me out. On the specs for >the new KLR 650 the wheelbase is listed as 58.9". Is this measured >from the point where the tyres touch the ground or from the longest >point from the front of the front tyre to the rear of the back tyre? Wheelbase is axle center to axle center; approximately the same as where the tires touch the ground. (Never had tyres on my bike, so I can't be ure about those... ) My '96 KLR650 is a couple of inches over 7 feet long, tip to tip. It fits in a 7' trailer if I lock the forks at the stop. >Also what is the total height of the bike without mirrors- I guess >from the top of the windshield to the floor? Mine is about 52", top of windshield to ground, sitting more or less vertically. You can chop that down considerably (easily get it under 48") if you compress the front suspension. (How to do that is left as an exercise to the reader.) Paul (whose waist is also "dimensionally challenged"...) Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 08:21:49 PST From: "Paul Christenson" Subject: Re: (klr650) Electrical Problem >It would start with the kick stand down and clutch engaged in >neutral but when I disengaged the clutch it would not start. You mean if you pull the lever, it WON'T start? If you mean the opposite, that you have to pull the lever to start, that's normal behaviour. >Aslo I could not lock the front wheel with the light off. Tail light? Don't turn the key all the way to the "P" setting. I did that several times when I first got the bike. >So we take off to a nudist resort to hang out I love that expression... it made my morning. Thanks. >I had shut it off with the turn signal on(did this cause the >electrical to finally fail?). It shouldn't. I always park mine with the turn signal on, when I'm in reserve, or something else needs attention. (Left turn for reserver, right turn for everything else.) It's the equivalent of the string on the finger. Never caused me a problem. >Anyone know what the problem may be?? Well, you can always bypass the stand and clutch lockout switches. Quite a few people here have done that. Paul (who is known to let it *ALL* hang out on occasion... but never on two wheels. Some parts shouldn't risk road rash!) Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 09:25:17 -0700 From: Bogdan Swider Subject: RE: (klr650) Vasque Sundowners...NKLR My feet must be one more thing weird about me. Mine are cooler in the Vasques than specifically, my Nikes. Bogdan I have tried out the Vasques and they are nice, but no way can a leather boot (especially if its the goretex version) be cooler on a hot day than a pair of nikes. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 09:29:44 -0700 From: Bogdan Swider Subject: RE: (klr650) Vasque Sundowners...NKLR Yup, I've had'em grownd down & Vibram soles glued on 3 times. Bogdan I have a pair of Vasques ($280.00 CAN., gortex lined etc..) that I have been wearing for around 6 years. I think I'm on my 3rd sole... and no, they're not stitched. Some kind of vulcanizing process. Arne ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 09:35:23 -0700 From: Bogdan Swider Subject: RE: (klr650) Kudos Juan that was me. One important point though, 1/8" borders on too tight; go 1/16" It's best to be conservative on klr chain tension. Bogdan And today I went out and adjusted my chain using the 1/8" from the rubber method that was mentioned by someone. The previous method of measuring what seemed to be a floating chain seemed to be an inexact science at best. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 09:41:27 -0700 From: Bogdan Swider Subject: RE: NKLR RE: (klr650) KLR's in Daytona Down in Belize I met a couple of Texans that drove down in a Yugo with a Toyota grill; then sold it to the locals. Nice huh? Bogdan That sort of thing reminds me too much of this Toyota Corolla that I saw in Philadelphia with the grille & emblem from a SAAB 9000 on it. Mark SNIP> At the >Thumper Rally, someone had a KLR with all decals removed with the BMW >roundels on the tank also. It was white. Go figure. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 09:45:55 -0800 From: Christopher J Beasley Subject: Re: (klr650) O-ring, Heavy/Duty O-ring, X-ring or bog standard chains? Eric & Jill Dietiker wrote: > >1. How long would a bog standard cheapo chain last? > If you're going on a road trip, get an O or X ring chain. You'll need to > lube a non-O-ring chain every couple hundred miles, and you won't need to > lube the O-ring chain at all (though you'll need to adjust it). > > >2(b) What special tools do I need? Chain breaker? Any special tools to fit > >the master link? > You might consider this: As Kurt said, the OEM chain is endless, so you > would need a couple of special tools to cut the old chain and press the > master link. I find it easier to remove the swing arm pivot, slip off the > old chain and slip on the new chain. I have the dealer install the master > link on the new chain. The main concern here is to get the master link > pointed in the correct direction (the closed end leads). > > > >3. Am I right to say that if I were to get an endless chain, the swing-arm > >has to be removed? Long operation? Not advised for butter fingers? How > >great are the risks of cocking it up? > You need only remove the pivot bolt and slide the swing arm back enough to > slip the chains through. > The biggest problem I found with the endless chain is that it costs ~350 bucks from Kawasaki! Does anyone make a nice endless chain that will fit the KLR that is in a reasonable price range? O-ring X-ring or otherwise?Thanks! Chris > Eric. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 10:55:44 -0700 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (klr650) Fw: KLR breakdowns - -----Original Message----- From: FTabor231@aol.com To: K650dsn@aol.com ; owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Date: Thursday, March 11, 1999 9:01 AM Subject: KLR breakdowns >I originally joined this list to find out more about the KLR 650 in terms of >very long mileage rides and then got sidetracked. would any of the listers, >not into personal insults, care to relate any breakdowns they had while on >long rides and what they did about it or to prevent the same from happening in >the future. >The upcomming ride is a 31,000 four month middle to tip to tip and back ride. >I bought the KLR because of info I read on web sites and from this list. I >love the bike. >Having been a BMW dealer during the mid 70's and having owned a few, I'm not >as smitten with them as others, but my riding pals will be on GS's, I've read >and talked to long distance riders such as Iron Butters, Danny Liska, the >author of Jupiters travels, etc. and nothing has changed my mind about the >cost of and frequency of maintanance issues with the BMW. >Any experiences would be appreciated, thanks in advance, Frank > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 11:01:42 -0700 From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) O-ring, Heavy/Duty O-ring, X-ring or bog standard chains? - -----Original Message----- From: Christopher J Beasley To: Eric & Jill Dietiker Cc: klr650 Date: Thursday, March 11, 1999 3:51 AM Subject: Re: (klr650) O-ring, Heavy/Duty O-ring, X-ring or bog standard chains? >The biggest problem I found with the endless chain is that it costs ~350 bucks >from Kawasaki! Does anyone make a nice endless chain that will fit the KLR that >is in a reasonable price range? O-ring X-ring or otherwise?Thanks! >Chris I can make you an endless chain. I will use a DiD X-ring chain with a riveted connector link. You wont be able to tell where the connector is. I have the chain, the rivet connector link and the tools to do it with. Fred ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 11:01:34 -0700 From: "Pokluda, Gino F" Subject: RE: (klr650) Fw: KLR breakdowns >I bought the KLR because of info I read on web sites and from this list. I >love the bike. What year KLR650 did you purchase? There are some things that should be addressed if you purchased a pre-1996 model. If you have a later model, you bought a very reliable machine that will most likely only need some jetting work, a bit if seat work for long days in the saddle. Gino ------------------------------ Date: 11 Mar 99 12:07:13 -0600 From: Eric West Subject: (klr650) Endless chain Fred, Is there really any reason to run the endless?? I ran master linked (= spring clip) for 15K miles on my 88. I rather liked the fact that I could = occassionally take it off, clean it, and really lube it well. Plus, this = aspect let me carry an extra chain on those long off road trips without = having to bother with a chain breaker etc. Thanks for taking care of us :-) Eric West ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 10:10:15 PST From: "Paul Christenson" Subject: Re: (klr650) Electrical Problem >>It would start with the kick stand down and clutch engaged in >>neutral but when I disengaged the clutch it would not start. >You mean if you pull the lever, it WON'T start? If you mean the >opposite, that you have to pull the lever to start, that's normal >behaviour. I checked mine, and the starter cranks in neutral, regardless of side stand or clutch. In gear, it'll start with stand up and clutch pulled. Sounds like one (or more) of your lockout switches aren't working. Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 13:11:59 -0500 From: mjv2@psu.edu (Mark) Subject: RE: (klr650) Fw: KLR breakdowns Gino, As I am the owner of two pre-96 machines, could you tell me what these issues are? I don't want any surprises to occur when I'm a thousand miles from home. Thanks, Mark B2 A2 >There are some things that should be >addressed if you purchased a pre-1996 model. > >Gino ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 11:19:14 -0700 From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) Endless chain - -----Original Message----- From: Eric West To: KLR650 list Date: Thursday, March 11, 1999 4:11 AM Subject: (klr650) Endless chain Fred, Is there really any reason to run the endless?? IMHO Peace of mind. If you feel you need the endless or riveted chain then their may be some strength to be gained but I always use a clipped link. I can't remember any of all the chains I have used ever loosing a master link. If they are installed correctly and don't rub on anything to wear off the clip then the master link should last as long as the rest of the chain. Fred ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 10:26:23 -0800 From: Christopher J Beasley Subject: Re: (klr650) O-ring, Heavy/Duty O-ring, X-ring or bog standard chains? Fred Hink wrote: > I can make you an endless chain. I will use a DiD X-ring chain with a > riveted connector link. You wont be able to tell where the connector is. I > have the chain, the rivet connector link and the tools to do it with. > > Fred For how much! Cheers! Chris ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 11:33:56 -0700 From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) O-ring, Heavy/Duty O-ring, X-ring or bog standard chains? - -----Original Message----- From: Christopher J Beasley To: Fred Hink Cc: Eric & Jill Dietiker ; klr650 Date: Thursday, March 11, 1999 4:31 AM Subject: Re: (klr650) O-ring, Heavy/Duty O-ring, X-ring or bog standard chains? > > >Fred Hink wrote: > >> I can make you an endless chain. I will use a DiD X-ring chain with a >> riveted connector link. You wont be able to tell where the connector is. I >> have the chain, the rivet connector link and the tools to do it with. >> >> Fred > > For how much! >Cheers! >Chris > > I think the DiD X-ring chain is around $110, the rivet connector is around $6. I'd put it together for free. Fred ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 13:04:45 -0700 From: Bogdan Swider Subject: (klr650) RE: To the dude with chain installation question: I'd forward this direct but I lost your name & address. Old timers, dispenseme/przepraszam for the rerun. I don't believe this pearl of wisdom made it into the archives. It sure beats trucking the chain to a shop and since it easily can be performed on the bike you don't have to remove the swingarm. Also cheaper than a chain press. Starting with Fred's clear explanation, the responses/comments on my masterlink problem got me to thinking (Sort of like getting the Titanic moving, often with the same results). While pondering Bob's notched vise grip method I came upon my solution: I took a piece of scrap 3/8" oak board and traced the link plate on it. I drilled 2 holes where the pins would be; Then sawed around the tracing forming a small wood rectangle slightly larger than the link itself. With the link assembled on the chain this easily mounted onto the protruding pins and the plate was affectionately squeezed into place using a small portable vise. I'm sure vise grips or the chain breaker Steve carries in his tool pouch would also work. With this gizmo you don't have to alternate pressing onto each pin separately. Anyway it worked. Thanks for the help, Bogdan ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 13:07:59 -0700 From: Bogdan Swider Subject: (klr650) FW: To the dude with chain installation question: I'd forward this direct but I lost your name & address. Old timers, dispenseme/przepraszam for the rerun. I don't believe this pearl of wisdom made it into the archives. It sure beats trucking the chain to a shop and since it easily can be performed on the bike you don't have to remove the swingarm. Also cheaper than a chain press. Starting with Fred's clear explanation, the responses/comments on my masterlink problem got me to thinking (Sort of like getting the Titanic moving, often with the same results). While pondering Bob's notched vise grip method I came upon my solution: I took a piece of scrap 3/8" oak board and traced the link plate on it. I drilled 2 holes where the pins would be; Then sawed around the tracing forming a small wood rectangle slightly larger than the link itself. With the link assembled on the chain this easily mounted onto the protruding pins and the plate was affectionately squeezed into place using a small portable vise. I'm sure vise grips or the chain breaker Steve carries in his tool pouch would also work. With this gizmo you don't have to alternate pressing onto each pin separately. Anyway it worked. Thanks for the help, Bogdan ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 13:38:06 -0700 From: "Pokluda, Gino F" Subject: RE: (klr650) Fw: KLR breakdowns >>As I am the owner of two pre-96 machines, could you tell me what these issues are? I don't want any surprises to occur when I'm a thousand miles from home.<< The more common problem in the pre-96 models is the balancer adjuster mechanism. This can be easily ruined by over tightening the balancer adjuster bolt, which in turn deforms the slide and does not allow the adjuster shoe to move. These parts were made beefier in the 96 and up models. These upgraded pieces will work fine older KLR's The post 96 models also have a stronger clutch, although the one on my 95 has had some major abuse and still works just fine. I have disconnected both the clutch safety switch and side stand safety switches on my KLR which were the causes of intermittent starting and cutting out problems. Be forewarned, however, that by doing this, you bike will start in any gear with the side stand down. Gino ------------------------------ End of klr650-digest V2 #114 ****************************