From: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com (klr650-digest) To: klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: klr650-digest V2 #164 Reply-To: klr650 Sender: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk klr650-digest Monday, March 22 1999 Volume 02 : Number 164 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 21:52:39 -0700 From: "Skip Faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) (KLR650) Slick 50 Opinions?? ................> SNIP<.................. > With all this talk of Motorcycle Oil, I wonder what anyone has to say >about oil additives like Slick 50. > He swears it will keep your engine better lubed and lasting longer. > >I was planning on running some Slick 50 through my A13 when I get around 2K >on the odometer. But after hearing about really slippery oil causing damage >by means of slippage to the clutch, I'm not sure about it anymore. Has >anyone else out there used Slick 50 before? Comments? > >Chalz > Chalz, Besides Slick 50 having to pay off a class action suit because they couldn`t verify any of their claims, PTFE, ( teflon ) becomes particulate matter in an engine and is notorious for clogging some paper oil filters. I did try Slick 50 in my Suburban several years ago and all it did for me was triple my oil consumption ( I had 119,000 miles on it) and later found out your not supposed to put it in a high mileage engine as it will loosen the accumulated sludge and deposits that help seal a high mileage engine. I have seen no legitimate proof of the claims of any of the so called " miracle additives". I`m not saying that there is not potentially any good ones out there, I just don`t know of any. There is one that has been certified for aircraft use that seems to have some decent field testing to back up their claims. It`s called AvBlend, and it is not one of these " one time" treatments. It is an additive that temporarily fills in the porous surface of the metal surfaces in an engine to reduce friction, and so far seems to work well in aircraft engines, especially in engines with a history of valve sticking. Keep in mind that any of these so called " Super lubricants" may not do very well in a wet clutch transmission. They predominantly are designed for closed engines. Since there is no legitimate proof for the benefit of most additives, I stay away from them until there is proof they work. Skip ( momma didn`t raise no fool, regardless of what SHE thinks ) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 00:03:56 EST From: Krgrife@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR water crossings In a message dated 3/21/99 7:40:32 PM Pacific Standard Time, sroller@frontiernet.net writes: > How deep a water crossing can I expect my KLR to ford before I need worry > about "drowning". The KLR is pretty well set up for water crossings with vent tubes exiting high inside the rear fender and the air box intake on the top of the box. I have had water up just below the spark plug without flooding out. I use lots of silicone grease inside the plug boot. Kurt G. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 22:03:53 -0700 From: "Skip Faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Interesting bikes spotted ....................>SNIP<.................. >. Also a Honda NX650; I'd never >seen this. Dual sportish suspension, low front fender, bash guards, >windscreen, Nonfango hard tail box with side racks. Cool looking bike. >Anybody know anything about these bikes? > >-- >Rob Gendreau >Oakland, California Rob, I had an NX650 for several years and really enjoyed the bike. It had pretty soft suspension for what I was doing and after $700, it did pretty well. The engine was bulletproof in my opinion, and I got over 40,000 miles on it with no major problems before I sold it. The tanks are too small, but the previous owner had put a 5.9 gallon Acerbis tank on it that fit perfect. It was very similar to the KLR in weight and handling. It has an air-cooled engine with no heating problems. I replaced it with an R100GS, but if I had it to do over, I probably would have kept it. It is very popular in Europe, and known as the Dominator. After-market parts are rare over here, but lots in the European catalogs. It was a fun bike. Skip ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 22:10:59 -0700 From: "Skip Faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) Down-under tool storage >Hey List - ..................>SNIP<.................................. >simplicity and low cost. A 2-foot length of 4" PVC pipe (I bought black - >pricier, but at 2$ a foot, it looks a LOT COOLER), 2 "access plugs" (4" >rubber plugs with big wingnuts - tighten the nut, and the rubber expands, >sealing the end of the PVC pipe), and 2 sturdy hose clamps. THAT'S IT! The >tube fits very neatly in front of the frame member, into a little ...........>SNIP<........................... >Anyway, I'll quit patting myself on the back now - my arm's nearly broken. >It's just that this is my first original idea for a way to make my KLR a >better bike. I can get pics - if people are interested, but it's really >pretty straightforward. > >Mike Magier >A12 Groundhog >99ST1100 (4 more days . . .) > Mike, great idea. That`s what makes this List so good, the number of ideas for one problem allow us to choose what might work for us. Skip ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 22:19:16 -0700 From: "Skip Faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) KNLR POWER >I think I have you all beat. Try this..... Detroit Series 60 6 cylinder >diesel (out of a 1994 Freightliner), coupled to a Fuller Road Ranger 10 >speed transmission. 425 ponies developing 1350 lbs of torque. >Now all I have to do is design a sufficient frame and wheel combo. >But first I need to take my medicine, heh heh heh. >" ....they're coming to take me away, haha, they're coming to take me away, >hoho..." >Adios, NY Pete That should work great for towing my 18' horse trailer. Skip ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 22:40:40 -0700 From: Richard Ohnstad Subject: RE: (klr650) First shift " Eldon recommends pulling in the clutch and blipping the throttle." This technique has always worked for my '94KLR, and I also used it = sucessfully on an '83 Venture Royale (which could really jump when it = was cold). Richard Ohnstad=20 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 00:55:21 EST From: Hops28@aol.com Subject: (klr650) slick 50 and the manufacturer If the manufacturers of cars and truck deemed this product to be vital to the longevity of their vehicles, then I would assume that you would find it in the crankcase from the factory. Not there is it. Look in the owners manual. Not there either? Get my point? ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 22:51:19 -0700 From: "Skip Faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) I dare you... >Well it is true that I didn't wait all night like Eldon recommends...gently rocking the bike >back and forth..(g)...but, then again, I doubt that our good friends at the Kawasaki dealership >would give the lullably treatment... > >>Kurt Kurt, I talked with Roger Davis Thursday, one of Kaw.`s tech engineers, getting their side of the oil specification thing ( I`m not letting this thing go, I`ve talked to 4 oil company engineers, two research facilities, and 3 motorcycle engine manufacturers in the last week ) and asked him about the oil level in the KLR. He said they get these questions a lot. He said that due to oil that sometimes get trapped in the galleys and other recesses of the engine, rarely is all the oil drained, unless you were to actually lay the bike down for a few hours and then switch to the other side. Leaning the bike is not sufficient to always completely drain the engine, and they`ve accounted for this. He said that if you follow their instructions and use the site glass properly, they guarantee no problems associated with too low of oil. He said that they aren`t about to court a law suit by not being a 100% about the proper way to judge the oil level in their engines. He said that in all the bikes, over all the years, that use this system, never have they had a problem. If there has been, he`s the one that would have heard about it. In other words, sorry Eldon, but don`t fix something that ain`t broke. Sorry guys, but I`m sticking to the site glass until I know to do otherwise. I change my oil like Ron did in his last post, and then add whatever is necessary to bring it up to the proper level on the glass. Kurt, I applaud your endeavor to check things for yourself. Any opinion from anyone, including mine, should always be suspect unless you feel it has been sufficiently researched. I`m so suspect of my own views, that that`s the reason I research so much. Skip ( who`s looking forward to an interesting Moab) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 01:11:27 EST From: Hops28@aol.com Subject: (klr650) handlebars Hey guys, bent the bars this weekend and I am looking for some replacements. From looking around on the web I can see that Renthal XR600 bars are well liked but I would like some opinions on this. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 23:12:37 -0800 From: "Vik Banerjee" Subject: Re: (klr650) I dare you... - -----Original Message----- From: Skip Faulkner To: KLR650 Page Date: Sunday, March 21, 1999 9:57 PM Subject: Re: (klr650) I dare you... >too low of oil. He said that they aren`t about to court a law suit by not >being a 100% about the proper way to judge the oil level in their engines. Okay Skip here is the $60,000 question if I put 2.6L in my KLR every oil & filter change which I do am I going to have any negative result? I was changing the oil and filter in my GS today and was trying to put in exactly 2.9L (as per the manual) when I just said screw it and put in the whole 3.0L rather than measure it exactly. I can't see how this can be a major problem, but since we are back on oil I thought I'd ask! Cheers, Vik ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 01:28:13 EST From: Cloudhid@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Par 4 KLR On 3/20/99, dlhill@visi.net writes: snip >anyone tried to make a mount or carry a set of golf clubs on the KLR I haven't tried it Dan, but USA VenturCraft makes a fiberglass moto trailer called the 'Grand Kruiser.' It weighs 165 lb and carries 19 cu ft of cargo. Their ad says it's, "Enough room for two sets of golf clubs and your extra gear". It includes a lockable lid latch, independent torsion suspension, and 4.8 x 12 Tires. Price is $1100. They also make a smaller 'Kruiser' weighing 140 lb with 15 cu ft of cargo for $800. You can opt to have it painted to match your bike.=A0=A0 http://www.venturcraft.com/prod.htm Redondo Ron (wondering how many of these will show up in Moab) ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 23:16:21 -0800 From: "Arne Larsen" Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Race Laughs....Long >In a message dated 3/20/99 10:38:44 PM Central Standard Time, VFR754@aol.com >writes: > ><< Some of the KLR stuff does look pretty cool on video. I'm looking forward >to getting into the editing booth and seeing what we can put together for the > show on the KLR. >> Which show are you referring to? Will we be able to see it? Arne ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 23:22:36 -0800 From: "Arne Larsen" Subject: Re: (klr650) Down-under tool storage - -----Original Message----- From: Mike Magier To: KLR650 List Date: Sunday, March 21, 1999 9:06 PM Subject: (klr650) Down-under tool storage > I can get pics - if people are interested, but it's really >pretty straightforward. No, that's alright... WHAT DO YOU THINK!! OF COURSE WE'RE INTERESTED MAN!!! Bring 'em on... =<) Arne ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 07:31:42 -0500 From: "Steamroller" Subject: Re: (klr650) Down-under tool storage Hi When I get a new bike, the toolkit is usually gone, missing or just plain inadequit. Seeing as I do all my own maintenance, this is how I figuire out what I need to bring.... In the course of usual maintenance or repair, what ever tool is needed to do the job, goes into the tool kit, within reason of course. The big torque wrenches, air compressor and the like stay home. But I almost always have the tools necessary to what needs to be done, so should I really, REALLY want to, most of my maintenance work can be done where ever I happen to be. So long as a particular individual is willing to compromise, it amazing the level of repair that can be done with a minimum of equipment. At the moment I could maintain any of my 3 bikes without opening the shed for anything but chemical items like oils. NY Pete - -----Original Message----- From: Mike Magier To: KLR650 List Date: Sunday, March 21, 1999 11:56 PM Subject: (klr650) Down-under tool storage >Hey List - >I am feeling unreasonably proud of myself this minute, and I need to share >it with you wonderful folks. Several months ago, a few listers were kicking >around the idea of mounting a tool box in front of the bash plate. I >remember thinking that it would be nice to free up the storage space, and >keep that weight low and forward. But I also thought that there probably >wasn't any secure way to mount a tool box there that would allow any kind of >convenient access to the tools. I promptly forgot all about it - or so I >thought. > >Apparently, in the deep recesses of my puny unconscious, I continued to >ponder this idea, because out of the blue, I woke up today with the entire >solution in my mind, and I just had to go DO IT! It is fiendish in its >simplicity and low cost. A 2-foot length of 4" PVC pipe (I bought black - >pricier, but at 2$ a foot, it looks a LOT COOLER), 2 "access plugs" (4" >rubber plugs with big wingnuts - tighten the nut, and the rubber expands, >sealing the end of the PVC pipe), and 2 sturdy hose clamps. THAT'S IT! The >tube fits very neatly in front of the frame member, into a little recess >between Obe Wan's hiway pegs and the protruding bolts from the after market >bashplate. The hose clamps go around the tube, the hiway pegs, and through >the upper of the 2 holes on the front of the bash plate on each side. This >way, the hose clamps don't have to make any sharp bends against metal edges, >causing a potential failure spot. The sucker is TIGHT! It's going nowhere. >The end plugs are awesome - totally tight and waterproof, but a breeze to >remove. > >2 feet is probably just a little long - it sticks about 1/2" past the foot >pegs on each side, and the wingnuts on the end plugs stick out a little >further. Still, by my eyeball, there's no way I'm gonna lean enough to drag >them. It doesn't interfere with use of the pegs at all. I just loaded my new >tool tube with all the tools I could think of: > > 8 mm - 24 mm combination wrenches > spare shift lever > spare clutch lever > adjustable wrench > "6-in-1" screwdriver > full set of metric allen wrenches > 3/8" ratchet driver, 1/4" adapter, 3" extender > needlenose pliers > regular pliers > circlip pliers >(all of the above were rolled together in a towel and cinched together - >just barely fit) >OEM tool kit >set of 6 allen heads on 3/8" drive sockets (6mm - 12mm) >6mm - 16mm sockets (in small tupperware) >CO2 tire inflater w/ 4 cartridges > >We're talking about 15-20 pounds of tools, more or less. It's all real snug >- nothing shakes. Just went for a short test ride, couldn't really even tell >it was there. The front end felt a little stiffer on small bumps - that's >about it. > > I know this list of tools is overkill. I don't have a lot of roadside >repair experience, and I'm not really sure what I should keep in, what >should come out. I would certainly appreciate any input. In particular, I'd >like to leave out some of the bigger combination wrenches. That's where most >of the weight and length is. If I could leave out the bigger wrenches, I >could probably take a couple of inches off the tube. > >Anyway, I'll quit patting myself on the back now - my arm's nearly broken. >It's just that this is my first original idea for a way to make my KLR a >better bike. I can get pics - if people are interested, but it's really >pretty straightforward. > >Mike Magier >A12 Groundhog >99ST1100 (4 more days . . .) > > ------------------------------ End of klr650-digest V2 #164 ****************************