From: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com (klr650-digest) To: klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: klr650-digest V2 #165 Reply-To: klr650 Sender: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk klr650-digest Monday, March 22 1999 Volume 02 : Number 165 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 07:48:23 -0500 From: Bill Wright Subject: (klr650)Aluminum or Steel? While riding on Saturday down GA.180, affectionately known as the 12 miles of smiles, I was following Eric Jasniewicz. Leaning into the turns, draging the footpegs, similing all the way. Well, most of the way. I came around one curve right on Eric's tail when I hear this bang and a metal to metal grind. I thought at first that I threw a brake pad. After testing the brakes, I quickly discovered that the brakes were fine and came to a quick stop as Eric was disappearing down the mountain. I put down the kick stand and started to remove helmet, jacket, etc. when I noticed the bike falling to the right. Thank goodness for those Pelican cases. No damage, except for my ego. Two vehicles came by while I was horsing the KLR back onto its rubber. After establishing that I was physically ok, just stupid, they proceeded on down the mountain. On examination I noticed that the I had thrown the chain. No problem, this happened on my dirt bikes several times. OOPS, what happened to those nice sharp teeth on the rear sprocket. All that was there were some cute little bumps. This sprocket is only 7000 miles old!! The OEM sprocket lasted 16000 miles. I remounted the chain, adjusted tension, and eased her down the mountain. Yes, Eric did come back to find out why I wasn't still on his tail. One look at my sprocket and all he could say was WOW. Well, I tried to save a couple of pounds by going for the more expensive aluminum sprocket, rather than the cheaper steel one. Well, I won't make that one again. I successfully babied her home while Eric followed. On the down side, when I ordered the new sprocket, I also ordered 2 new helmets for my SO and I and a tank bag. Amazing how those catalogs draw you in!! Hope to be back in the saddle next weekend. Bill Wright (going back to being the man of steel) Hotlanta, GA. 98 KLR650 - "Special K" - 23,000 miles ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 07:51:26 +0000 From: Jeffrey Doyle Subject: Re: (klr650) First Shift of the Day > This is not something you have to live with. > Frank Frank, My '87 750 Ninja did the clunk and spin thing with the rear wheel everytime I first started out with it when it was brand new. I found that starting it on the center stand, letting it warm up, and then putting it in first (while still on the center stand) allowed the clutch to work without getting that drive train strain. The rear wheel spun until I kicked it back up into neutral. Once I was sure the wheel stopped spinning I nudged the bike forward off the center stand and then dropped in first again and it acted OK. As I put more miles on the bike it seemed to get to be less of a problem. I also noted that if I started the bike up for a warm up and shut it down without riding it, the next time I started it up (whenever) the sticky clutch thing would definitely occur. For some reason my A2 has only displayed a sticky clutch problem a few times but not to the extent that some of the listers have mentioned. Jeff A2 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 07:58:54 -0500 From: Mike Ratta Subject: RE: (klr650) KLR 600 Acerbis tank info request. The 600 was mine, theres still a pic on the thumper page someplace. should be under the older pictures. I dont know if acerbis makes the tank anymore, but I do have some comments about it. The tank was formed with lots of small bubbles in it that caused pinholes at the surface, made the tank look dirty. Also the gas vapors seep through the plastic and eat the adhesive of the stickers. If you do decide to get one, please keep my email address and tell me when you do. I have some stickers scanned and edited in photoshop that you can print on a good quality color printer and use in place of the ~25$US apiece ones. - -----Original Message----- From: Pippo Nicotera [mailto:pmnicotera@eostel.it] Sent: Sunday, March 21, 1999 11:29 AM To: klr650@lists.xmission.com Subject: (klr650) KLR 600 Acerbis tank info request. Hello' Mike and dear fellow listers... If my memory serves me at all... is your 600 equipped with an Acerbis plastic tank??? I remember seeing a picture but I cannot recall where it is! If it's yours, How long it is you have that tank?... how does it hold to ageing??? Vaguely thinking about replacing my tiny 600 tank with an aftermarket! Tnx! Best regards from Pippo in Italy - -- Politicians should read science fiction, not westerns and detective stories. - -- Arthur C. Clarke ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:01:22 +0000 From: Jeffrey Doyle Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Break In (NKLR) > you are breaking in all the parts while it is cool out. Deceleration is > important too because it sucks oil up on the back side of the piston and > rings. Well thats my .02 worth, Frank That's right. By running the bike cautiously up and down the revs (strong but not extreme) it helps the rings to seat better (lugging is prohibited as it rocks the piston and potentially causes more wear than reving it up short of redline). Also by running at various speeds....like highway, then backroad, then 30-ish, then maybe highway again etc...it makes the metal in the cylinders settle in at different operating temperatures....almost like a tempering effect. It has something to do with the way the atomic structures of the metals are effected by heating and cooling. Any metalurgists out there who can add to this? Jeff A2 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 07:45:33 -0600 (CST) From: Dale Borgeson Subject: Re: (klr650) GEAR LEVER POSITIONING > Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 00:24:11 -0000 > From: "Stevens, Greig (CALBBAY)" > Subject: (klr650) GEAR LEVER POSITIONING > > my foot off the peg (especially if I am standing!). However, the current > positioning of the gear lever necessitates that I have to lift my foot off > the peg, change down gear(s) and reposition my foot back on the peg. snip snip > Has anyone else had a similar experience? I would certainly like to hear > how you have overcome it. I suspect that the gear lever may need to be bent > downwards but I would rather find out if someone has found another (better) > solution. I have this same problem. I have very long legs and on all bikes I've owned I lower the gear shift lever so that I can get positive shifts. When I tried to do this on the KLR I discovered the same thing you did, the frame prevents lowering the lever even one spline. After much thinking I decided that the only solution involved a manufacturing a complex shift linkage or changing the way I shift. My solution is to always ride the KLR with boots that are taller in the toe and I still almost have to lift my whole foot (leg) to get positive shifts. I know that this solution sucks but it's all I've got. Cheers - -- Dale Borgeson dalebor@tiny.net Minneapolis, MN U.S.A. "Motorcycle Touring For Beginners" at www.visi.com/~dalebor ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:50:57 +0000 From: Jeffrey Doyle Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Break In (NKLR) I'm going to have to spend some time going over the manual (for what > that's worth) and see the particulars about the tolerances. > > Jeff---who should be packing for his trip tomorrow. Jeff, FWIW My KLR manuals ('88) suggested SE or SF grades of oil. There's about 20,000 miles on the bike and I've been using Castrol automotive and motorcycle grades over the years plus other brands in a pinch (but rare). Currently I've got enough Castrol 20W-50 (Motorcycle Specific) API Service Grade SG to get me through the summer. The dealer who sold me the bike said the 20W-50 is better for the tranny in hot weather, and the dealer I have to go to now told me 20W-50 is too heavy (use 10W-40). I'm a believer in going with the heavier oil because my area is a resort location and can be prone to traffic jams. Need I say more? I've had no clutch slippage using this oil. Also I check my clutch cable adjustment to make sure it is slack just a hair (though this means the clutch lever will vibrate and be a little noisey sometimes) so that the plates are mated properly. If there is too much slack the shifts will be clunky because the plates don't get enough space on the squeeze. The KLR does use a little oil and I monitor the sight glass. It's not a lot of usage but if I was going for a 300 miler at highway speeds of 70 I would top it off after I got back with a splash. There is some carbon residue on my white fender near the exhaust but no visible blue oil burning smoke. It cleans off easily with washing and I've been using "Rain Dance" wax to get the rest off. The manual refers to potential carbon build up in the muffler anyways and thats why there is a screw on the bottom of it so it can be removed if required. Jeff A2 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:08:19 -0500 From: duftler@us.ibm.com Subject: (klr650) Oil Capacity Kurt, Has anybody tried measuring the amount of oil actually drained from the engine? Also, wouldn't putting the bike on the center-stand change the angle of the engine? It would be interesting to see which people on which side of the great oil divide are using the center-stand method, and which are holding the bike straight with no center-stand. Matt Duftler Tarrytown, NY A9 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:19:44 -0600 From: "J.P.Zucht" Subject: Re: (klr650) slick 50 and the manufacturer Hops28@aol.com wrote: > > If the manufacturers of cars and truck deemed this product to be vital to the > longevity of their vehicles, then I would assume that you would find it in the > crankcase from the factory. Not there is it. Look in the owners manual. Not > there either? Get my point? Fair point, but...just to play 'devil's advocate' for a moment...I don't think any of the major manufacturers really WANT their vehicles to last a LONG LONG LONG time... Another example...for years we've been seeing messages in the owner's manuals that the bodies are "galvanized, double-dipped, rust-proofed" - and "NO EXTRA (aftermarket) rustproofing is needed or reccommended"... ...but these cars and trucks STILL rust. phil ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 07:26:37 -0700 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil Capacity |Has anybody tried measuring the amount of oil actually drained from the engine? | |Also, wouldn't putting the bike on the center-stand change the angle of the |engine? It would be interesting to see which people on which side of the great |oil divide are using the center-stand method, and which are holding the bike |straight with no center-stand. | This is a good idea Matt, would someone who is about to change their oil volunteer to do this for us. Otherwise, I'll do it next time. Eldon drains his all night leaning to the right and then to the left. I drain mine for about 2 hours leaning it on the centerstand to the right and to the left. It is hard for me to believe that there is 10 ounces left in the engine... Kurt ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:25:44 EST From: TRA1115@aol.com Subject: (klr650) remove please remove me from email list.....thanks ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 07:28:52 -0700 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) I dare you... |Kurt, I talked with Roger Davis Thursday, one of Kaw.`s tech engineers, |getting their side of the oil specification thing ( I`m not letting this |thing go, I`ve talked to 4 oil company engineers, two research facilities, |and 3 motorcycle engine manufacturers in the last week ) and asked him about |the oil level in the KLR. Skip, I love the way you gather this info...there are still some anomalies...because Redondo says his takes the full 2.5 liters to reach the sight glass...mine takes 2.2 liters. Does the owner's manual (I don't have it handy) say to change the oil and fill to the sight glass or to add 2.5 liters at an oil change? Kurt ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:30:13 +0000 From: Jeffrey Doyle Subject: Re: (klr650) UFO Super Bike --low fender installation question My initial impression is that the fender > looks very short to keep mud, etc. off the engine, etc.(any comments > from those of you using this fender?) I would appreciate any > information/tips on installing the fender from those of you who have > been through the process. Perhaps a mudflap? Jeff A2 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:48:52 +0000 From: Jeffrey Doyle Subject: Re: (klr650) New Headlight concern.. brbo@uniserve.com wrote: > > So I am out on my second ride this year, I get home and my > headlight was out (7000 km, first time this has ever happened). I > figured replacing the OEM bulb with a H4 90/130w, was the reason. -- > Verified 10A fuse blew, replaced it...still no headlight !! Re-installed > the OEM bulb, still no light...confirmed all connections were good. > Tapped the lens and Yammo - light returns ?? Now, every time I remove Brian, I don't have a quick fix but I would examine the wire plug connections under the headlight area just to make sure everything is hooked up OK (ground etc..) especially if the bike gets washed alot or ridden in the rain and corrosion could occur in a socket. Also it's possible you've got a new bulb with a floating filament in there that disconnects when it cools and when you start up the bike you get nothing until you bang on the light and cause it to vibrate and contact the filament holder thus making a connection. I had a similar problem with another bike and got a year out of a lamp before it totally went. It's possible to get a bad bulb out of the box. If you take out the bulb and hold it up to the light can you may be able see if the filament looks attached properly. Of course if you had the time and money to get another bulb, and it's good to have as a backup anyways, you could try that one and this would tell you if the problem was machine or bulb specific. Jeff A2 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 06:52:28 -0800 From: "Robert Morgan" Subject: Re: (klr650) handlebars I put Rentahll Desert High bars on mine, I really like em. Morgan ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:54:50 EST From: FTabor231@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Down-under tool storage In a message dated 3/21/99 10:56:56 PM Central Standard Time, magier@bentonrea.com writes: << It's just that this is my first original idea for a way to make my KLR a better bike. I can get pics - if people are interested, but it's really pretty straightforward. >> Mike, this was a great idea for a lot of storage jobs, thanks and keep sharing. frank ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:10:42 -0700 From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) AlpineStar's Tech 8 / 5 - -----Original Message----- From: brbo@uniserve.com To: NILSTIAR@aol.com ; KLR List Date: Sunday, March 21, 1999 6:01 AM Subject: Re: (klr650) AlpineStar's Tech 8 / 5 > > Any opinions about the Alpinestar Tech 5 or Tech 8 boots ... Are they >waterproof ? > I have some MSR System 6 boots that are made by Alpinestar. I believe they are like the Tech 8 boots. These boots are the best made boots that I have ever had or seen. I really like the replaceable instep. I believe that the System 6 boots costs less than the Tech 8 too. They are as waterproof as any dirtbike boot out there. Fred ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 10:07:58 +0000 From: Jeffrey Doyle Subject: Re: (klr650) slick 50 and the manufacturer J.P.Zucht wrote: > > Hops28@aol.com wrote: > > > > If the manufacturers of cars and truck deemed this product to be vital to the > > longevity of their vehicles, then I would assume that you would find it in the > > crankcase from the factory. Not there is it. Look in the owners manual. Not > > there either? Get my point? > > Fair point, but...just to play 'devil's advocate' for a moment...I don't > think any of the major manufacturers really WANT their vehicles to last > a LONG LONG LONG time... > > Another example...for years we've been seeing messages in the owner's > manuals that the bodies are "galvanized, double-dipped, rust-proofed" - > and "NO EXTRA (aftermarket) rustproofing is needed or reccommended"... > ...but these cars and trucks STILL rust. > > phil FWIW, A machinist told me years ago that the PTE in Slick 50 will cause a "leaves in the drain effect" like in those tiny holes you see when you pull a valve cover on a car that allow the oil to drain back into the system. The teflon does lubricate well, but in a micro-view it's like chunks of plastic. Jeff A2 ------------------------------ End of klr650-digest V2 #165 ****************************