From: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com (klr650-digest) To: klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: klr650-digest V2 #167 Reply-To: klr650 Sender: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk klr650-digest Monday, March 22 1999 Volume 02 : Number 167 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 10:03:52 -0800 From: "Arne Larsen" Subject: Re: (klr650) (KLR650) Slick 50 - warranty - -----Original Message----- From: Vik Banerjee To: Chalz Milliken ; 'KLR650' Date: Monday, March 22, 1999 8:55 AM Subject: Re: (klr650) (KLR650) Slick 50 >On that subject I'd recommend all the home mechanics on the list keep good >records on the work you perform on your bike if its under warranty, even >going so far as to document the more elaborate procedures (vale adjust) with >pictures. Its not a big deal if you do it at the time and if you have to >make a warranty claim at least you can show you followed the manufacturer's >specs. > >Cheers, > >Vik I don't know about the States (if the warranty stuff is different) but the lime green pamphlet entitled "Kawasaki Owner's Guide" specifically states the following: 1. The owner must deliver, at his expense, the complete product to an authorized Kawasaki dealer for all periodic maintenance services (as recommended in the Owner's Manual for that model) during the warranty period applicable to that model. These maintenance services are to be recorded on the Warranty Guide and the Owner's Manual. 4. ALL MECHANICAL WORK must be performed by an Authorized Kawasaki Dealer. There were other points of course, but these struck me because in my earlier quest for knowledge (in comparing the F650 with the KLR650) one lister cited that an advantage with the KLR was that you could perform your own scheduled maintenance - then went on to say "try doing that with the BMW...". Beings as I could perform most mechanical services myself, this was going to be an advantage for me. So I thought any ways. Obviously this is not the case with the A13. Oh well, Arne ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:12:08 +0000 From: Jeffrey Doyle Subject: Re: (klr650) Maiden voyage gone awry. Eric Winslow wrote: > > On Mon, 22 Mar 1999, Jeffrey Doyle wrote: > > > Eric, > > > > be effected. Was this '94 machine left idle without being ridden by the > > pervious owner? Was the gas left in the tank for a long time? It > > The bike was fairly idle for a year before I bought it. Maybe something > worked into the fuel line at the wrong time. But it still ran strong on > the highway, even if it wanted to quit on me when I stopped. Would this be > consistent with restricted fuel flow? > Yes, Happened to mine....I let the bike sit idle too long a few years ago when the battery went dead one winter. After installing a new battery, I started it and it ran terrible at low speed and I had to blip the throttle to keep the thing from stalling out or backfiring (even with the idle screw adjusted up). On I-95 it ran OK but at low speed it was like trying to fly a WWI Sopwith Camel that sputtered and threatened to stall. I took it to a dealer who cleaned out the carb and it worked fine after that. I never let it sit for more than a couple of weeks during the winter without starting it up or topping off the tank with fresh gas. The only way I managed to keep it running enough to limp it into the dealer's shop was to put STP gas treatment in the tank (not the whole bottle...just small reasonable amounts to work on any water that may have been in the system or soften up varnish) and hope for improvement. There was some improvement but not enough to cure the problem. Jeff A2 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 12:54:31 -0600 From: waynef Subject: (klr650) (NKLR)Nolan N100 helmet (flip-up) for sale I have a like new (complete with box, manual, etc) Nolan N100 (white, medium) for sale. I bought the helmet recently and have worn it a few times. $150 If interested E-mail me direct. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 14:00:04 EST From: FTabor231@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Maiden voyage gone awry. Sounds like a clogged pilot jet Winslow. With a cloged pilot, it will start great with the enricher circuit, aka da choke, when warm and choke off you are relying on the pilot jet to idle on. When it dies, you try to choke it to get it running which floods it till it gets cool again. Since the pilot jet allows fuel to bleed at all throttle settings, you are actually running leaner at all throttle settings. Just a thought. frank ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:28:43 -0600 From: "Bryce Hysjulien" Subject: (klr650) First Gear Lurch Spring has finally made it to the Frozen North and a young mans fancy has turned to bike prepping and the first ride of the season. Unfortunately, I've found a problem. My KLR has developed a nasty lurch when shifting into first gear. The lurch is enough to sqwuak the rear tire slightly. Is this normal for the KLR? Also, my KLR has approximately 6,000 miles on it. TIA Bryce 98 KLR ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 14:26:29 -0500 (EST) From: Eric Winslow Subject: Re: (klr650) Maiden voyage gone awry. Thanks for the input. That does sound like a decent diagnosis, since the lean condition would cause the engine to run hotter, no? Seems like the cooling system should have been able to handle it, though. I wonder if I'll be able to ride that thing back or home or if I'll have to haul it in a pick-up? On Mon, 22 Mar 1999 FTabor231@aol.com wrote: > Sounds like a clogged pilot jet Winslow. With a cloged pilot, it will start > great with the enricher circuit, aka da choke, when warm and choke off you > are relying on the pilot jet to idle on. When it dies, you try to choke it to > get it running which floods it till it gets cool again. Since the pilot jet > allows fuel to bleed at all throttle settings, you are actually running leaner > at all throttle settings. Just a thought. frank > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 14:24:54 EST From: Cloudhid@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Maintenance & Warranty On 3/22/99, alarsen@rapidnet.net writes: snip >"Kawasaki Owner's Guide" specifically states the following: >1. The owner must deliver, at his expense, the complete product to an >authorized Kawasaki dealer for all periodic maintenance services Arne this is reprinted from the warranty that came with my A10: _____________ "3. Owner's Obligations. (a) Owner must deliver the motocycle to an authorized Kawasaki motorcycle dealer *OR* equally qualified service facility for inspection, maintenance services and adjustments. - --------------- And this from the A10 owner's manual, page 3: _____________ "You should keep a maintenance record for your motorcycle. To assist you in keeping this record, we have provided space on p. 110 through 113 of this manual where an authorized Kawasaki Dealer, *OR* someone equally competent, can record the maintenance. You should also retain copies of maintenance work orders, bills, etc., as verification of this maintenance." - ---------------- It only says that you SHOULD, not that you MUST keep records. Records might help prove your case in court, but proving that we are 'equally competent' compared to that burned out, acid casualty that the dealer generously calls a mechanic, now that may be hard to do... Redondo Ron (wearing his oppositional disorder for all the world to see;) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 14:36:45 -0500 From: Mike Ratta Subject: RE: (klr650) opinions on big gun pipe and FCR41 carb The original CV carb was used with a supertrapp pipe. Never tried the CV with the big gun because of the jetting headaches the CV has always given me. Sudco might offer an application for the KLR.. Or you may be able to adapt the one for the KLX for it. I got mine through stroker. - -----Original Message----- From: Arne Larsen [mailto:alarsen@rapidnet.net] Sent: Monday, March 22, 1999 1:14 PM To: Mike Ratta Subject: Re: (klr650) opinions on big gun pipe and FCR41 carb Sounds good to me. I have a two-week old KLR650. I ordered the complete Big Gun exhaust 2 weeks ago. Coincidence you say? Absolutely! (sorry Fred, they promised me they'd send me a Big-Gun model poster girl with it - I couldn't pass it up) What is this FCR41 carb you're talking about? Did you try the exhaust with the original carb first and notice an improvement? Was your original carb in need of replacement anyways? Arne - -----Original Message----- From: Mike Ratta To: 'KLR650' ; 'KLX650' Date: Monday, March 22, 1999 9:15 AM Subject: (klr650) opinions on big gun pipe and FCR41 carb >Just look my KLX out for a ride late last week with the new pipe and carb. I >was grinning like a madman the whole way. What a difference. I highly >recommend both of these mods to KLR and KLX owners. Rolling the throttle >produces some unbelievable low end torque. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:01:58 -0800 From: phipps@bulldog.prn.bc.ca (Allan Phipps) Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Hauling in truck Hi Fred, Thanks for the info. I'm having a little trouble visualizing the set up you described. Can you help me clarify a few things? >Japanese trucks don't have the strongest metal for their beds. You will >need to put a piece of plywood or some other brace in the front of your >front tire and center the bike in the back of the bed. You will need two >tie down points in the front of the bed preferably in line with the forks. So, the plywood goes on edge against the front of the box to stop the front tire from denting the front of the box? The tie down points need to be in front of the bike, fairly close together (to be in line with the forks)? i.e. ------------------------ / t.d. t.d. / / / / tire / Or, do you mean the tie downs should be on the front of each side of the box? i.e. ------------------- / / t.d. tire t.d / / >Use good quality tie downs. I would recommend Ancras, not something cheap >like you would get at Walmart. ;<) Do you think I could get such tie downs at a place that sells dirt bikes and skidoos? What makes a good tie down? >You can use a piece of 2X4 under the >fender and on top of the tire. This will allow you to compress the tire and >not the springs when you cinch down your bike. Or you can use a world >famous "Fred's fork saver" You mean cut a piece of 2x4 to the required length to stand on end between the tire and front fender? Will it stay? Do you happen to know the length that would work (stock suspension as far as I know)? Do I need to do something similar with the rear of the bike? >You are throwing away memories that you will have for the rest of your life. >Riding your new bike for the first time on a 15 hour trip, what could be >better than that? Now you really have me thinking. A coworker offered to take a couple days off and double me down to Victoria on his 76 'Wing and then I could ride the bike back up here with him following me. The MSF course I did in Edmonton didn't give me any street experience. I feel really capbable of riding in any parking lot in North America!! Riding in traffic is another story. Thanks again Fred. Al ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:12:02 -0700 From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) opinions on big gun pipe and FCR41 carb - -----Original Message----- From: Mike Ratta To: 'KLR650' Date: Monday, March 22, 1999 5:44 AM Subject: RE: (klr650) opinions on big gun pipe and FCR41 carb >The original CV carb was used with a supertrapp pipe. Never tried the CV >with the big gun because of the jetting headaches the CV has always given >me. Sudco might offer an application for the KLR.. Or you may be able to >adapt the one for the KLX for it. I got mine through stroker. I can get you a Mikuni flat slide carb kit for the KLR. I put one on my XR600 and it makes a big difference in the mid to top end. Since the XR didn't have a CV carb to begin with, the improvement on a KLR would be HUGH! >-----Original Message----- >From: Arne Larsen [mailto:alarsen@rapidnet.net] >Sent: Monday, March 22, 1999 1:14 PM >To: Mike Ratta >Subject: Re: (klr650) opinions on big gun pipe and FCR41 carb > > >Sounds good to me. I have a two-week old KLR650. I ordered the complete >Big Gun exhaust 2 weeks ago. Coincidence you say? Absolutely! (sorry Fred, >they promised me they'd send me a Big-Gun model poster girl with it - I >couldn't pass it up) Ya, But does she come with an UMBRELLA? >What is this FCR41 carb you're talking about? Did you try the exhaust with >the original carb first and notice an improvement? I can also get one of these from Sudco but they are not in a kit (not jetted for the KLR or have the throttle that fits the carb). Fred ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 12:11:28 -0800 From: "Robert Morgan" Subject: Re: (klr650) (KLR650) Slick 50 - warranty OK SO here is my spin on this. As a service representative for Honda automobiles I have to field this question frequently. American Honda's position on Slick 50 and other miracle additives is that if you pour that stuff in your engine while its still under warranty and you have an engine failure that is remotely related to lubrication failure, the burden of proof that the engine was at fault shifts to you and the manufacturer of said "snake oil"! I would not do it! As far as Toyota truck engines lasting a long time with Slick 50.......Ive seen them go 400k with only infrequent oil changes. I would not credit Slick 50 with that, give credit where credit is due, Toyota makes a damn near bulletproof truck engine. Often times a chemist has a great breakthrough idea but fails to consider the side effects. Remember that Black Gold oil with graphite in it. Sure in the lab that stuff looked great. In reality when placed in an engine it coated the crank and cam seals with so much graphite build up that every car I ever saw with it the crankcase leaked like a sieve. I changed lots of rear main seals that year. You don't see it on the shelf much anymore. As far as those guys at the state fair that hawk Slick 50 that show you a motor running with no oil having been treated with additives. I knew one of those guys. Those motors have barely enough compression in them to run.......no load. NO compression and no load means almost no heat or friction, not much lubricant needed. IF IT WORKS, DON'T FIX IT! Morgan You may remove soap box now ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:23:43 -0700 From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Hauling in truck - -----Original Message----- From: Allan Phipps To: Fred Hink Cc: klr650@lists.xmission.com Date: Monday, March 22, 1999 6:05 AM Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Hauling in truck >Hi Fred, > >Thanks for the info. I'm having a little trouble visualizing the set up >you described. Can you help me clarify a few things? > >>Japanese trucks don't have the strongest metal for their beds. You will >>need to put a piece of plywood or some other brace in the front of your >>front tire and center the bike in the back of the bed. You will need two >>tie down points in the front of the bed preferably in line with the forks. > >So, the plywood goes on edge against the front of the box to stop the front >tire from denting the front of the box? Yup! >The tie down points need to be in front of the bike, fairly close together >(to be in line with the forks)? If you have some attachment points in the front corners of the floor of the bed, that will work. >>Use good quality tie downs. I would recommend Ancras, not something cheap >>like you would get at Walmart. ;<) > >Do you think I could get such tie downs at a place that sells dirt bikes >and skidoos? What makes a good tie down? Any dirt bike shop that is worth going to will have tiedowns. Ancras are the best because they have been the business the longest and are very rugged. I have the original set I bought in 1969 and still use them. You will loose them or somebody will "borrow" them before they wear out. >>You can use a piece of 2X4 under the >>fender and on top of the tire. This will allow you to compress the tire and >>not the springs when you cinch down your bike. Or you can use a world >>famous "Fred's fork saver" > >You mean cut a piece of 2x4 to the required length to stand on end between >the tire and front fender? Yup >Will it stay? It will if you are careful when you pull down the tiedowns. This is where my invention shines. I have some bungee cords attached so the fork saver stays where you put it. The problem is (as can be attested to by some who have short memories) you have to remove it before you try to move the bike. >Do you happen to know the length >that would work (stock suspension as far as I know)? About 9 inches Do I need to do >something similar with the rear of the bike? Nope. > >>You are throwing away memories that you will have for the rest of your life. >>Riding your new bike for the first time on a 15 hour trip, what could be >>better than that? > >Now you really have me thinking. A coworker offered to take a couple days >off and double me down to Victoria on his 76 'Wing and then I could ride >the bike back up here with him following me. The MSF course I did in >Edmonton didn't give me any street experience. I feel really capbable of >riding in any parking lot in North America!! Riding in traffic is another >story. Just give everyone else on the road alot of room and pretend that they are after you. They are! The KLR can go just about anywhere, so take all the back roads. The road less traveled is the best anyway. Now where did I hear that before?? Fred ------------------------------ End of klr650-digest V2 #167 ****************************