From: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com (klr650-digest) To: klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: klr650-digest V2 #168 Reply-To: klr650 Sender: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk klr650-digest Monday, March 22 1999 Volume 02 : Number 168 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 12:21:54 -0800 From: Tom Myers Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Hauling in truck I like the diagonal method for little japanese pickups. You put the front wheel into the right corner, put one tiedown from the handlebar forward to the 'left' front corner. The other tiedown to from the handlebar to the right rear corner. Put the bike in gear and close the tailgate. I've hauled many many miles thru lots of beatup forest roads like this and it is more secure than the straight ahead method as it does not 'unweight' the rear wheel. But it wastes bed space. You can use another tiedown from the rear rack down to the right rear corner. If you put it in the center you'll have to brace the front bulkhead (on a Mazda for sure!) or it will bend to touch the cab, something your friend may not be so happy about. If you have no brace you'll want the diagonal method for sure. If any rocks are getting up to the windscreen on your KLR I imagine that there will be nothing left of the Mazda's windscreen. Tom ======================================== >A friend is going to haul my 96 KLR from Victoria, BC to Fort St. John (a >good two days drive) in the back of his Mazda pickup. What do I need to >know about hauling a KLR in the back of a truck. I want to make sure it is >secured properly. What kind of straps should I use, how do I tie down the >bike so it won't fall over/out, is there a good way to lock the bike to the >truck, should I cover the front of the bike/windscreen with anything to >protect it from flying rocks (still lots of gravel on the roads from the >winter), is it possible to put the bike on one side of the truck box (my >friend has some other stuff to haul too), .... ?? If it matters, the truck >is a 96 Mazda extended cab 4X4, with either a regular box or short box. > >You may be wondering why I'm having the bike hauled here instead of riding >it. I would really like to ride it but I just got my licence last summer >(did a MSF course) and I haven't spent any time riding in traffic. I >thought a 15 hour trip would not be a good plan for my first time riding >the bike. I bought it a few months ago, but I actually haven't seen the >bike yet. Can't wait to get it!! > >Thanks in advance for your advice!! > >Al >Fort St. John, BC >Canada >96 KLR +------------------------------------+ | CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349 | 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016 | Seattle, WA 98122 USA | webpage: http://www.cycoactive.com | e-mail: TomMyers@cycoactive.com +------------------------------------+ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 12:28:43 -0800 (PST) From: frjsmithjr@webtv.net (F. J. Smith) Subject: (klr650) NKLR Helmets Just wanted to know if anyone else on the list has purchased a Bieffe 3 Sport helmet ( with the quick release retention system ) and had the same problem I had. Got the helmet new 3 weeks ago. The second time I wore it, I couldn't get the buckle and tongue to disengage. After 15 minutes of trying various and sundry ways to manipulate the quick release system, I had to cut the chin strap to get the helmet off. Sent the helmet to the distributor here in California with a detailed letter. They're willing to give me 50% off on another 3 Sport, but say that the quick release system is not defective. They also say that they have had no complaints or similar problems with the 3 Sport. Comments will be appreciated. Jim '98 KLR ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:37:20 -0700 From: "Pokluda, Gino F" Subject: RE: (klr650) NKLR Helmets >>Bieffe 3 Sport helmet ( with the quick release retention system ) and had the same problem I had. Got the helmet new 3 weeks ago. The second time I wore it, I couldn't get the buckle and tongue to disengage. After 15 minutes of trying various and sundry ways to manipulate the quick release system, I had to cut the chin strap to get the helmet off.<< I had this same problem with a Bieffe Modular 4 helmet a several years ago. I buckle seemed very prone to jamming due to dust and dirt and I had to clean and lube it every few days. Gino ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:47:54 -0700 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Hauling in truck >after you. They are! The KLR can go just about anywhere, so take all the >back roads. The road less traveled is the best anyway. Now where did I >hear that before?? > >Fred Oh no...another literati among us...I liked it better when you were just "Fred 'Eight-Track' Hink"...(g) Kurt ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:49:24 -0700 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) First Gear Lurch >Spring has finally made it to the Frozen North and a young mans fancy has >turned to bike prepping and the first ride of the season. Unfortunately, >I've found a problem. My KLR has developed a nasty lurch when shifting into >first gear. The lurch is enough to sqwuak the rear tire slightly. Is this >normal for the KLR? Also, my KLR has approximately 6,000 miles on it. > >TIA >Bryce 98 KLR Yah...we were just chatting about this Bryce..pretty common...short of taking it apart and cleaning the clutch up the best you can do is blip the throttle and shift it into second first. I have to be careful and not start mine in gear (neutral safety disconnected) because even with the clutch in she jumps right up.... Kurt ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:52:40 -0700 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) Maiden voyage gone awry. >Thanks for the input. That does sound like a decent diagnosis, since the >lean condition would cause the engine to run hotter, no? Seems like the >cooling system should have been able to handle it, though. I wonder if >I'll be able to ride that thing back or home or if I'll have to haul it in >a pick-up? No, just read Redondo's carb article, loosen the carb clamps, throttle cables and choke cable (maybe not necessary) and rotate the carb clockwise...drop the float bowl...unscrew the pilot jet...have a can of carb spray handy and...wearing safety glasses and spraying away from any painted surfaces clean it so that you can see a perfect little "o" when you look skyward...screw it back in...and drive it home and then to do a complete teardown.... Kurt ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 15:46:03 -0500 From: Chalz Milliken Subject: (klr650) (KLR650) Not So Slick 50 Alright, alright I hear ya. All of you meaning (Morgan, Redondo, Vik, Arne, Cameron, Phil ect.) As I said before "I will compromise." This time I will compromise with myself and keep Mr. Slick out of my engine. You guys are scaring me. The Moose will probably run forever, just like my Toyota anyway. Chalz ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 15:57:35 +0000 From: Jeffrey Doyle Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Hauling in truck Tom, Diagonal method questions; 1) Is the bike on the sidestand and if so is it better to hook up the left handle bar strap to the left front corner of the truck box first? 2) Does hooking up the strap to the right handle bar and back to the right rear of the truck box cause the bike to sufficiently lock into the corner without it slipping rearward or do you also use wheel chucks? 3) Were you able to put the KLR in shorter box as in a Ranger SuperCab using this method? I used to use the straight on method in an F150 and always thought it would be a hassel getting it into the Ranger (have since traded Ranger for a Civic Hatchback to accomodate a baby seat better but thought about going back to a truck again next time). 4) In your opinion what works best for bike hauling...box liners or mats or neither? (using diagonal method and not putting any anchor into the truck bed) 5) Any recommendations on ramps (I used to find a spot of ground I could back the tailgate up to and just bring it across)? Obviously I've ridden my bike alot more than hauled it. I may need to transport it if I get the time to go on trips like MOAB when circumstances permit. Info appreciated. Jeff A2 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 14:12:50 -0700 From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Hauling in truck - -----Original Message----- From: Kurt Simpson To: Fred Hink ; Allan Phipps Cc: klr650@lists.xmission.com Date: Monday, March 22, 1999 6:53 AM Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Hauling in truck > >>after you. They are! The KLR can go just about anywhere, so take all the >>back roads. The road less traveled is the best anyway. Now where did I >>hear that before?? >> >>Fred > > >Oh no...another literati among us...I liked it better when you were just "Fred >'Eight-Track' Hink"...(g) > >Kurt > > I am a man of many disguises. I am now working for Gino as Fred (Hitman) Hink Got any knee caps you need broken?? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 14:09:49 -0700 From: "Pokluda, Gino F" Subject: RE: (klr650) (KLR650) Not So Slick 50 >>This time I will compromise with myself and keep Mr. Slick out of my engine. You guys are scaring me. The Moose will probably run forever, just like my Toyota anyway.<< I've never been an advocate of oil additives, but my father has always been an STP user. He has two trucks on his farm that he bought new and always put STP in at every oil change (3000 miles). His 67 Ford has 350,000+ miles and still runs (no quite sure how good) with no engine rebuild. His 79 Ford has 200,000+ miles and is used daily. Gino ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 01:10:19 -0800 From: "Darrel & Deanna" Subject: (klr650) Maiden voyage gone awry >Anybody have a clue as to what might be going on here? Once it was >rolling the power seemed to be fine. I figure the first >problem might be unrelated to the cooling problem. Maybe I got a bad batch >of gas in NY before hitting the road? Any thoughts would be appreciated. > >Now I need to go back and pick the bike up from Aberdeen, Maryland where I >left it. I wonder if it just might act like nothing happened. Eric, on problems that could be gas related or spark related and are difficult to trace I like to build a base to build on. So, for me, the first thing I would do is pull the carb and give it a good cleaning and inspection with special attention to the pilot jet, floats, and diaphragm....be careful not to lose the needle collar...then when you get it back on you can be pretty sure it is not fuel related...put an inline filter along with it and look for any rust in the gas tank...My guess is that will correct it... Kurt Eric- Before removing your carb as Kurt suggests, I would check for an intake leak by spraying carb cleaner in the carb area while the bike's running. If the aerosol spray causes an increase in RPM, you have a leak. Good luck, Darrel ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 15:47:27 -0600 (CST) From: Tom Clay Subject: Re: (klr650) (KLR650) Slick 50 >So I'm going to compromise. I will use less than the recommended amount >of Slick 50 for less than the recommended amount of time. > >If my engine explodes or something, I will keep the list updated. >I knew that extended warranty would be worth it!! > >Chalz >A13 Don't do it. DuPont, the manufacturer of Teflon, has stated over and over again that Teflon has no useful properties as an oil additive. If it did, then DuPont would surely be producing such additives itself. Tom Clay Winnipeg MB ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 14:10:58 -0800 (PST) From: fred w smith Subject: (klr650) NKLR: Oil/cold starts Lets try this angle on the oil thang: Im using synthetix in bike and truck in this cold climate cause starting/warmup is so much smoother. Go ahead, pour on the truth, how wrong am I, how much damage am I doing, burst my illusions. I shall survive. fred == fred w smith mt shasta californy "the alpine parking lot" _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 15:26:14 -0700 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR: Oil/cold starts >Im using synthetix in bike and truck in this cold climate cause >starting/warmup is so much smoother. > >Go ahead, pour on the truth, how wrong am I, how much damage am I >doing, burst my illusions. >I shall survive. >fred There is a whole bunch of us doing the same thang... Kurt ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 17:27:15 +0000 From: Jeffrey Doyle Subject: (klr650) Down-under tool storage Mike, Actually I think if you adapted your idea to a hand-grab rail mount situation, reduced the size to 4 in. dia by 6 in. long you could have a container on each side of the saddle, just in front of the directional signals that would be useful for carrying even more stuff without the heft of saddle bags (or in addition to). In fact I've got some old tins around that I may experiment with to see what kind of attachment would work. Jeff A2 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 17:53:13 -0500 From: "Steamroller" Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR: Oil/cold starts Me too. Maxum 4 synthetic blend 15w-50 in the 96 KLR, (70% off-road use), and 99 Honda XR 80 (all off-road) Castrol Synthetic blend 10w-40 in everything else, 94 Nissan PU, 98 Dodge Stratus, 86 Goldwing 1200, 99 Kawasaki Concours, 99 Kawasaki Vulcan 750. Everything starts, runs, shifts great, and nothing uses any oil. Oil and filter every 4000 on cars, 2500 on street bikes and about once-a-month on the dirtbikes, about 40 hours on the XR, about 800/1000 miles on the KLR, but it's mostly off-road, hard use. YES, I do spend alot on oil changes, but I spend almost nothing on any kind of motor work. Even the Goldwing has the original clutch and that one goes 15,000 miles a year, at least once to Florida and back every year, 2-up and a trailer, no less. Adios, NY Pete ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 18:15:02 EST From: GVBettes@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #165 In a message dated 3/22/99 7:10:20 AM Pacific Standard Time, owner- klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com writes: > My solution is to always ride the KLR with boots that are taller in the > toe and I still almost have to lift my whole foot (leg) to get positive > shifts. I know that this solution sucks but it's all I've got. > I am also tall and had a similar problem. This was mostly solved when I had a Russell seat made last year. The seating position is 2" higher than stock which raises my knees. This in turn caused my toes to point differently and my shifting improved. The only shift I occasionally miss is upshift to 5th while under hard acceleration. Gary ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 09:45:07 +1000 From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) Dynojet kit in a 600 and jetlist Skip Faulkner wrote: [...] > Pippo, good to hear from you,have you considered adapting one of K&N`s > universal fit filters, you might be able to work one of those in there. Well, I've considered replacing the stock filter with a pod of some sort. It could get tricky mounting that to the stock tube from the airbox to carby, but I haven't ruled out the idea completely. Variations to the carby snorkel may affect the (presumably) tuned length. Running a pod may be interesting, as it would allow practically the entire vertical RHS of the airbox to be hacked off (have to keep the LHS to hold the battery, and the bit at the rear that doubles as the mudguard), which would turn the airbox into a weathershield for the pod. [...] > I don`t know about Ted, but I`m drilling some relief holes in mine in such a > way as to keep my spark arrester intact and not destroy my fiberglass > packing. When I get it on the bike and test it, I`ll update the muffler > diagram to show where I drilled . Whatever fibreglass I may have had originally would have been blown away years and years ago. There's not a trace of any in the muffler I've hacked up. Mister_T ------------------------------ End of klr650-digest V2 #168 ****************************