Mineral Mountains 2023

More than 30 years ago, my friend Howard and I thrashed our way to the top of Granite Peak in the Mineral Mountains. The Minerals are just west of Beaver and east of Milford; they have striking granite crags and domes that attract rock climbers. The bad news is that they have few trails and the bushwhacking can be miserable. My memory of the bushwhacking from the first trip has dimmed, so I felt that it was time to brave it again.

I should point out that on that first trip, Howard and I spent several hours to go about 2 mi round trip. We faced grabby mountain-mahogany trees and scrub oaks, huge granite fins and domes that required elaborate circumventions, granite boulders in awkward places, loose dirt and slippery vegetation, plus tons of downhill-pointing deadfall. When we reached the summit ridge, we couldn't tell whether we were north or south of the summit, and we were ready to bag it. I went off into the bushes to the north to take a leak, and I discovered that the summit was just on the other side of the bushes. The summit register was a aluminum film can containing a label from a can of pineapple, on the back of which were the records of (I think) 4 groups spread over (I think) 12 years.

When I first scheduled the new trip for Memorial Day, I found multiple descriptions of alleged trails. With trails, we could be up and down in (say) 6 hours! Later on when I was researching the trip in detail, I realized that these trails were imaginary. Yes, there are a handful of new use trails lower down, created by climbers who tackle the Milford Needle and other crags, but no trails go to the top. Ouch.

On Friday, Keith, Roman and I scouted the climber trails near the Rock Corral picnic area. We found a route that would take us behind the first rank of cliffs, and I decided that it would do for Saturday's hike.

I didn't have a lot of confidence that we'd be able to make it to the top of Granite Peak, but I figured it was worth a try, if only to demonstrate to everyone just how obnoxious the brush is.

Somewhat to my surprise, the group didn't immediately surrender when we got our first taste of the terrain. We squeezed through the oak brush, scrambled over boulders, broke off lots of dead mahogany branches and managed to make headway, with lots of advances and retreats.

Eventually we came to a spot where it looked like we would have to lose a lot of elevation and thrash through some really dense mahogany. There was a chute just above us that cut between two crags, and although it was very steep, it looked more attractive than the brush bashing below.

The chute was steep, narrow and fairly brushy. It was also full of loose duff and slippery sand and gravel. We kept going in spite of this, and eventually we came out to a fine view of the peak above us. Alas, this view also revealed a big cliff below us, and three more big crags between our position and the correct route. We declared victory and bashed our way back to the Rock Corral parking lot.

It took us about 4 hours to go maybe 1 mile round trip, with 1000 ft of elevation gain. My kingdom for a trail!

go to the Granite Peak photo gallery

Some of us still had a little energy, so I organized a visit to Granite Peak Reservoir. In spite of the name, this pond is not actually very close to Granite Peak; it's hidden near Soldier Pass to the south.

The route takes a couple of switchbacks up to the top of a granite outcrop, then descends somewhat steeply to a line of crags. Some clever person built a dam between a couple of crags to provide water for cattle. The location is very photogenic, not just for the water and the crags, which are very fine, but also for the profusion of spring flowers. We saw balsamroot, lupine, phlox, woodland star, daisies, paintbrush and violets — not bad!

go to the Granite Peak Reservoir photo gallery

On Sunday, we went up into Ranch Canyon, north of Granite Peak. Keith, Roman and I had scouted the road on Friday, and it turned out to be drivable to the parking area below South Twin Flat Mountain, with several minor fords. Some kind person had cleared the deadfall from the road and filled in the washouts from the spring runoff.

I figured that we'd have a great view of Granite Peak and the Milford Needle from the undrivable jeep track that climbs South Twin, and I was right. It was just amazingly gorgeous, with scads of flowers and bright green aspens. The track heads steeply up through mahogany to the flat top of the South Twin volcano. The footing is pretty bad, with lots of loose rocks and deep ruts. I guess the good part is that there are actual switchbacks, and the views are stunning.

After taking a snack break at the top of South Twin, we went down the track to a spur road to a location called the Park. The views in this nook were wonderful. You could believe that you were in a much higher and wetter mountain range, with the scrub oak and white firs filling the couloirs in the granite. The Milford Needle loomed to the south and the mighty wedge of Peak 8473 dominated the view to the west. We speculated about how we might be able to conquer Granite Peak from the northwest; maybe I'll return in the fall and give it a shot.

go to the South Twin Flat Mountain photo gallery

I had long wanted to visit the Wildhorse Canyon obsidian mine in the north part of the Mineral Mountains. After descending Ranch Canyon, we headed up a well-graded road. The spur to Wildhorse was in much less wonderful shape, and Simon decided that he didn't want to risk his vehicle on the pointy boulders and stumps that littered the track. I decided to brave it, and Katherine and Rick and I got a chance to wander through the huge pile of volcanic glass at the end of the track. Obsidian tools from this location have been found in many areas of the West, and it really is pretty stuff. I sucked it up and went home without any glass in my pocket, but it was damn tough.

go to the Wildhorse Canyon obsidian mine photo gallery

Most people left on Monday morning. Rick and Roman and I went for a jaunt in the canyon behind our campsite. Even in the foothills of the Minerals, the crags and pinnacles are still formidably attractive.

go to the Rock Corral photo gallery

Since it was still well before noon, I offered to take Rick, Sheila and Roman over to Pahvant Butte, in the desert east of SR 257 and south of the village of Deseret.

There are really two locations to visit — the rugged summit of the cinder cone, and the weird rock formations on the north called the Lace Curtain. I'd read about the Lace Curtain in a geology book and I'd visited it in 2017. It's quite out-of-the-way; imagine my surprise to discover that the BLM or the county has put in plaques and signage to direct you there. They've also graded an impressive new gravel road almost all of the way to Pahvant Butte. I say “almost” because just before reaching Pahvant Butte, the new road gives way abruptly to the old crappy, bumpy track that was there back in 2017. I'm not sure whether they ran into problems with money or with permitting; it was very surprising.

The Lace Curtain is still odd and unique. The cliff swallows love it; the new plaques mention that golden eagles nest higher up in the holes.

go to the Lace Curtain photo gallery