Disquieting Rumors From the Interior.- Reconnoitring Party- Preparations for a Trading
Post.- An Unexpected Arrival - A Spy in the Camp.- Expedition Into the Interior- Shores
of the Columbia - Mount Coffin.- Indian Sepulchre.- The Land of Spirits- Columbian
Valley- Vancouver's Point.-Falls and Rapids.- A Great Fishing Mart.- The Village of
Wishram. - Difference Between Fishing Indians and Hunting Indians- Effects of Habits
of Trade on the Indian Character.- Post Established at the Oakinagan.
WHILE the Astorians were busily occupied in completing their factory and fort, a report
was brought to them by an Indian from the upper part of the river, that a party of thirty
white men had appeared on the banks of the Columbia, and were actually building
houses at the second rapids. This information caused much disquiet. We have already
mentioned that the Northwest Company had established posts to the west of the Rocky
Mountains, in a district called by them New Caledonia, which extended from lat. 52 to
55 deg north, being within the British territories. It was now apprehended that they were
advancing within the American limits, and were endeavoring to seize upon the upper
part of the river and forestall the American Fur Company in the surrounding trade; in
which case bloody feuds might be anticipated, such as had prevailed between the rival
fur companies in former days.
A reconnoitring party was sent up the river to ascertain the truth of the report. They
ascended to the foot of the first rapid, about two hundred miles, but could hear nothing
of any white men being in the neighborhood.
Not long after their return, however, further accounts were received, by two wandering
Indians, which established the fact that the Northwest Company had actually erected a
trading house on the Spokane River, which falls into the north branch of the Columbia.
What rendered this intelligence the more disquieting was the inability of the Astorians,
in their present reduced state as to numbers, and the exigencies of their new
establishment, to furnish detachments to penetrate the country in different directions,
and fix the posts necessary to secure the interior trade.
It was resolved, however, at any rate, to advance a countercheck to this post on the
Spokan, and one of the partners, Mr. David Stuart, prepared to set out for the purpose
with eight men and a small assortment of goods. He was to be guided by the two
Indians, who knew the country and promised to take him to a place not far from the
Spokan River, and in a neighborhood abounding with beaver. Here he was to establish
himself and to remain for a time, provided he found the situation advantageous and the
On the 15th of July, when Mr. Stuart was nearly ready to embark, a canoe made its
appearance, standing for the harbor, and manned by nine white men. Much speculation
took place who these strangers could be, for it was too soon to expect their own
people, under Mr. Hunt, who were to cross the continent. As the canoe drew near, the
British standard was distinguished: on coming to land, one of the crew stepped on
shore, and announced himself as Mr. David Thompson, astronomer, and partner of the
Northwest Company. According to his account, he had set out in the preceding year
with a tolerably strong party, and a supply of Indian goods, to cross the Rocky
Mountains. A part of his people, however, had deserted him on the eastern side, and
returned with the goods to the nearest Northwest post. He had persisted in crossing the
mountains with eight men, who remained true to him. They had traversed the higher
regions, and ventured near the source of the Columbia, where, in the spring, they had
constructed a cedar canoe, the same in which they had reached Astoria.
This, in fact, was the party despatched by the Northwest Company to anticipate Mr.
Astor in his intention of effecting a settlement at the mouth of the Columbia River. It
appears, from information subsequently derived from other sources, that Mr. Thompson
had pushed on his course with great haste, calling at all the Indian villages in his
march, presenting them with British flags, and even planting them at the forks of the
rivers, proclaiming formally that he took possession of the country in the name of the
king of Great Britain for the Northwest Company. As his original plan was defeated by
the desertion of his people, it is probable that he descended the river simply to
reconnoitre, and ascertain whether an American settlement had been commenced.
Mr. Thompson was, no doubt, the first white man who descended the northern branch
of the Columbia from so near its source. Lewis and Clarke struck the main body of the
river at the forks, about four hundred miles from its mouth. They entered it from Lewis
River, its southern branch, and thence descended.
Though Mr. Thompson could be considered as little better than a spy in the camp, he
was received with great cordiality by Mr. M'Dougal, who had a lurking feeling of
companionship and good-will for all of the Northwest Company. He invited him to head-quarters, where he and his people were hospitably entertained. Nay, further, being
somewhat in extremity, he was furnished by Mr. M'Dougal with goods and provisions for
his journey back across the mountains, much against the wishes Of Mr. David Stuart,
who did not think the object of his visit entitled him to any favor.
On the 23rd of July, Mr. Stuart set out upon his expedition to the interior. His party
consisted of four of the clerks, Messrs. Pillet, Ross, M'Lennon, and Montigny, two
Canadian voyageurs, and two natives of the Sandwich Islands. They had three canoes
well laden with provisions, and with goods and necessities for a trading establishment.
Mr. Thompson and his party set out in company with them, it being his intention to
proceed direct to Montreal. The partners at Astoria forwarded by him a short letter to
Mr. Astor, informing him of their safe arrival at the mouth of the Columbia, and that they
had not yet heard of Mr. Hunt. The little squadron of canoes set sail with a favorable
breeze, and soon passed Tongue Point, a long, high, and rocky promontory, covered
with trees, and stretching far into the river. Opposite to this, on the northern shore, is a
deep bay, where the Columbia anchored at the time of the discovery, and which is still
called Gray's Bay, from the name of her commander.
From hence, the general course of the river for about seventy miles was nearly
southeast; varying in breadth according to its bays and indentations, and navigable for
vessels of three hundred tons. The shores were in some places high and rocky, with
low marshy islands at their feet, subject to inundation, and covered with willows,
poplars, and other trees that love an alluvial soil. Sometimes the mountains receded,
and gave place to beautiful plains and noble forests. While the river margin was richly
fringed with trees of deciduous foliage, the rough uplands were crowned by majestic
pines, and firs of gigantic size, some towering to the height of between two and three
hundred feet, with proportionate circumference. Out of these the Indians wrought their
great canoes and pirogues.
At one part of the river, they passed, on the northern side, an isolated rock, about one
hundred and fifty feet high, rising from a low marshy soil, and totally disconnected with
the adjacent mountains. This was held in great reverence by the neighboring Indians,
being one of their principal places of sepulture. The same provident care for the
deceased that prevails among the hunting tribes of the prairies is observable among
the piscatory tribes of the rivers and sea-coast. Among the former, the favorite horse of
the hunter is buried with him in the same funereal mound, and his bow and arrows are
laid by his side, that he may be perfectly equipped for the "happy hunting grounds" of
the land of spirits. Among the latter, the Indian is wrapped in his mantle of skins, laid in
his canoe, with his paddle, his fishing spear, and other implements beside him, and
placed aloft on some rock or other eminence overlooking the river, or bay, or lake, that
he has frequented. He is thus fitted out to launch away upon those placid streams and
sunny lakes stocked with all kinds of fish and waterfowl, which are prepared in the next
world for those who have acquitted themselves as good sons, good fathers, good
husbands, and, above all, good fishermen, during their mortal sojourn.
The isolated rock in question presented a spectacle of the kind, numerous dead bodies
being deposited in canoes on its summit; while on poles around were trophies, or,
rather, funeral offerings of trinkets, garments, baskets of roots, and other articles for the
use of the deceased. A reverential feeling protects these sacred spots from robbery or
insult. The friends of the deceased, especially the women, repair here at sunrise and
sunset for some time after his death, singing his funeral dirge, and uttering loud
wailings and lamentations.
From the number of dead bodies in canoes observed upon this rock by the first
explorers of the river, it received the name of Mount Coffin, which it continues to bear.
Beyond this rock they passed the mouth of a river on the right bank of the Columbia,
which appeared to take its rise in a distant mountain covered with snow. The Indian
name of this river was the Cowleskee. Some miles further on they came to the great
Columbian Valley, so called by Lewis and Clarke. It is sixty miles in width, and extends
far to the southeast between parallel ridges of mountains, which bound it on the east
and west. Through the centre of this valley flowed a large and beautiful stream, called
the Wallamot, which came wandering for several miles, through a yet unexplored
wilderness. The sheltered situation of this immense valley had an obvious effect upon
the climate. It was a region of great beauty and luxuriance, with lakes and pools, and
green meadows shaded by noble groves. Various tribes were said to reside in this
valley, and along the banks of the Wallamot.
About eight miles above the mouth of the Wallamot the little squadron arrived at
Vancouver's Point, so called in honor of that celebrated voyager by his lieutenant
(Broughton) when he explored the river. This point is said to present one of the most
beautiful scenes on the Columbia; a lovely meadow, with a silver sheet of limpid water
in the center, enlivened by wild-fowl, a range of hills crowned by forests, while the
prospect is closed by Mount Hood, a magnificent mountain rising into a lofty peak, and
covered with snow; the ultimate landmark of the first explorers of the river.
Point Vancouver is about one hundred miles from Astoria. Here the reflux of the tide
ceases to be perceptible. To this place vessels of two and three hundred tons burden
may ascend. The party under the command of Mr. Stuart had been three or four days in
reaching it, though we have forborne to notice their daily progress and nightly
From Point Vancouver the river turned towards the northeast, and became more
contracted and rapid, with occasional islands and frequent sand-banks. These islands
are furnished with a number of ponds, and at certain seasons abound with swans,
geese, brandts, cranes, gulls, plover, and other wild-fowl. The shores, too, are low and
closely wooded, with such an undergrowth of vines and rushes as to be almost
About thirty miles above Point Vancouver the mountains again approach on both sides
of the river, which is bordered by stupendous precipices, covered with the fir and the
white cedar, and enlivened occasionally by beautiful cascades leaping from a great
height, and sending up wreaths of vapor. One of these precipices, or cliffs, is curiously
worn by time and weather so as to have the appearance of a ruined fortress, with
towers and battlements, beetling high above the river, while two small cascades, one
hundred and fifty feet in height, pitch down from the fissures of the rocks.
The turbulence and rapidity of the current continually augmenting as they advanced,
gave the voyagers intimation that they were approaching the great obstructions of the
river, and at length they arrived at Strawberry Island, so called by Lewis and Clarke,
which lies at the foot of the first rapid. As this part of the Columbia will be repeatedly
mentioned in the course of this work, being the scene of some of its incidents, we shall
give a general description of it in this place.
The falls or rapids of the Columbia are situated about one hundred and eighty miles
above the mouth of the river. The first is a perpendicular cascade of twenty feet, after
which there is a swift descent for a mile, between islands of hard black rock, to another
pitch of eight feet divided by two rocks. About two and a half miles below this the river
expands into a wide basin, seemingly dammed up by a perpendicular ridge of black
rock. A current, however, sets diagonally to the left of this rocky barrier, where there is
a chasm forty-five yards in width. Through this the whole body of the river roars along,
swelling and whirling and boiling for some distance in the wildest confusion. Through
this tremendous channel the intrepid explorers of the river, Lewis and Clarke, passed in
their boats; the danger being, not from the rocks, but from the great surges and
At the distance of a mile and a half from the foot of this narrow channel is a rapid,
formed by two rocky islands; and two miles beyond is a second great fall, over a ledge
of rocks twenty feet high, extending nearly from shore to shore. The river is again
compressed into a channel from fifty to a hundred feet wide, worn through a rough bed
of hard black rock, along which it boils and roars with great fury for the distance of
three miles. This is called "The Long Narrows."
Here is the great fishing place of the Columbia. In the spring of the year, when the
water is high, the salmon ascend the river in incredible numbers. As they pass through
this narrow strait, the Indians, standing on the rocks, or on the end of wooden stages
projecting from the banks, scoop them up with small nets distended on hoops and
attached to long handles, and cast them on the shore.
They are then cured and packed in a peculiar manner. After having been opened and
disemboweled, they are exposed to the sun on scaffolds erected on the river banks.
When sufficiently dry, they are pounded fine between two stones, pressed into the
smallest compass, and packed in baskets or bales of grass matting, about two feet long
and one in diameter, lined with the cured skin of a salmon. The top is likewise covered
with fish skins, secured by cords passing through holes in the edge of the basket.
Packages are then made, each containing twelve of these bales, seven at bottom, five
at top, pressed close to each other, with the corded side upward, wrapped in mats and
corded. These are placed in dry situations, and again covered with matting. Each of
these packages contains from ninety to a hundred pounds of dried fish, which in this
state will keep sound for several years.** (Lewis and Clarke, vol. ii. p. 32.)
We have given this process at some length, as furnished by the first explorers,
because it marks a practiced ingenuity in preparing articles of traffic for a market,
seldom seen among our aboriginals. For like reason we would make especial mention
of the village of Wishram, at the head of the Long Narrows, as being a solitary instance
of an aboriginal trading mart, or emporium. Here the salmon caught in the neighboring
rapids were "warehoused," to await customers. Hither the tribes from the mouth of the
Columbia repaired with the fish of the sea-coast, the roots, berries, and especially the
wappatoo, gathered in the lower parts of the river, together with goods and trinkets
obtained from the ships which casually visit the coast. Hither also the tribes from the
Rocky Mountains brought down horses, bear-grass, quamash, and other commodities
of the interior. The merchant fishermen at the falls acted as middlemen or factors, and
passed the objects of traffic, as it were, cross-handed; trading away part of the wares
received from the mountain tribes to those of the rivers and plains, and vice versa: their
packages of pounded salmon entered largely into the system of barter, and being
carried off in opposite directions, found their way to the savage hunting camps far in
the interior, and to the casual white traders who touched upon the coast.
We have already noticed certain contrarieties of character between the Indian tribes,
produced by their diet and mode of life; and nowhere are they more apparent than
about the falls of the Columbia. The Indians of this great fishing mart are represented
by the earliest explorers as sleeker and fatter, but less hardy and active, than the tribes
of the mountains and prairies, who live by hunting, or of the upper parts of the river,
where fish is scanty, and the inhabitants must eke out their subsistence by digging
roots or chasing the deer. Indeed, whenever an Indian of the upper country is too lazy
to hunt, yet is fond of good living, he repairs to the falls, to live in abundance without
"By such worthless dogs as these," says an honest trader in his journal, which now lies
before us, "by such worthless dogs as these are these noted fishing-places peopled,
which, like our great cities, may with propriety be called the headquarters of vitiated
The habits of trade and the avidity of gain have their corrupting effects even in the
wilderness, as may be instanced in the members of this aboriginal emporium; for the
same journalist denounces them as "saucy, impudent rascals, who will steal when they
can, and pillage whenever a weak party falls in their power."
That he does not belie them will be evidenced hereafter, when we have occasion again
to touch at Wishram and navigate the rapids. In the present instance the travellers
effected the laborious ascent of this part of the river, with all its various portages,
without molestation, and once more launched away in smooth water above the high
The two parties continued together, without material impediment, for three or four
hundred miles further up the Columbia; Mr. Thompson appearing to take great interest
in the success of Mr. Stuart, and pointing out places favorable, as he said, to the
establishment of his contemplated trading post.
Mr. Stuart, who distrusted his sincerity, at length pretended to adopt his advice, and,
taking leave of him, remained as if to establish himself, while the other proceeded on
his course towards the mountains. No sooner, however, had he fairly departed than Mr.
Stuart again pushed forward, under guidance of the two Indians, nor did he stop until
he had arrived within about one hundred and forty miles of the Spokan River, which he
considered near enough to keep the rival establishment in check. The place which he
pitched upon for his trading post was a point of land about three miles in length and two
in breadth, formed by the junction of the Oakinagan with the Columbia. The former is a
river which has its source in a considerable lake about one hundred and fifty miles west
of the point of junction. The two rivers, about the place of their confluence, are
bordered by immense prairies covered with herbage, but destitute of trees. The point
itself was ornamented with wild flowers of every hue, in which innumerable humming-birds were "banqueting nearly the livelong day."
The situation of this point appeared to be well adapted for a trading post. The climate
was salubrious, the soil fertile, the rivers well stocked with fish, the natives peaceable
and friendly. There were easy communications with the interior by the upper waters of
the Columbia and the lateral stream of the Oakinagan, while the downward current of
the Columbia furnished a highway to Astoria.
Availing himself, therefore, of the driftwood which had collected in quantities in the
neighboring bends of the river, Mr. Stuart and his men set to work to erect a house,
which in a little while was sufficiently completed for their residence; and thus was
established the first interior post of the company. We will now return to notice the
progress of affairs at the mouth of the Columbia.