Scanty Fare.- A Mendicant Snake.- Embarkation on Henry River- Joy of the
Voyageurs.-Arrival at Snake River.- Rapids and Breakers. - Beginning of Misfortunes.-
Snake Encampments.- Parley With a Savage.- A Second Disaster. - Loss of a
Boatman.- The Caldron Linn.
WHILE the canoes were in preparation, the hunters ranged about the neighborhood,
but with little success. Tracks of buffaloes were to be seen in all directions, but none of
a fresh date. There were some elk, but extremely wild; two only were killed. Antelopes
were likewise seen, but too shy and fleet to be approached. A few beavers were taken
every night, and salmon trout of a small size, so that the camp had principally to subsist
upon dried buffalo meat.
On the 14th, a poor, half-naked Snake Indian, one of that forlorn caste called the
Shuckers, or Diggers, made his appearance at the camp. He came from some lurking-place among the rocks and cliffs, and presented a picture of that famishing
wretchedness to which these lonely fugitives among the mountains are sometimes
reduced. Having received wherewithal to allay his hunger, he disappeared, but in the
course of a day or two returned to the camp, bringing with him his son, a miserable boy,
still more naked and forlorn than himself. Food was given to both; they skulked about
the camp like hungry hounds, seeking what they might devour, and having gathered up
the feet and entrails of some beavers that were lying about, slunk off with them to their
den among the rocks.
By the 18th of October, fifteen canoes were completed, and on the following day the
party embarked with their effects; leaving their horses grazing about the banks, and
trusting to the honesty of the two Snakes, and some special turn of good luck for their
The current bore them along at a rapid rate; the light spirits of the Canadian voyageurs,
which had occasionally flagged upon land, rose to their accustomed buoyancy on
finding themselves again upon the water. They wielded their paddles with their wonted
dexterity, and for the first time made the mountains echo with their favorite boat songs.
In the course of the day the little squadron arrived at the confluence of Henry and Mad
Rivers, which, thus united, swelled into a beautiful stream of a light pea-green color,
navigable for boats of any size, and which, from the place of junction, took the name of
Snake River, a stream doomed to be the scene of much disaster to the travellers. The
banks were here and there fringed with willow thickets and small cotton-wood trees.
The weather was cold, and it snowed all day, and great flocks of ducks and geese,
sporting in the water or streaming through the air, gave token that winter was at hand;
yet the hearts of the travellers were light, and, as they glided down the little river, they
flattered themselves with the hope of soon reaching the Columbia. After making thirty
miles in a southerly direction, they encamped for the night in a neighborhood which
required some little vigilance, as there were recent traces of grizzly bears among the
On the following day the river increased in width and beauty; flowing parallel to a range
of mountains on the left, which at times were finely reflected in its light green waters.
The three snowy summits of the Pilot Knobs or Tetons were still seen towering in the
distance. After pursuing a swift but placid course for twenty miles, the current began to
foam and brawl, and assume the wild and broken character common to the streams
west of the Rocky Mountains. In fact the rivers which flow from those mountains to the
Pacific are essentially different from those which traverse the prairies on their eastern
declivities. The latter, though sometimes boisterous, are generally free from
obstructions, and easily navigated; but the rivers to the west of the mountains descend
more steeply and impetuously, and are continually liable to cascades and rapids. The
latter abounded in the part of the river which the travellers were now descending. Two
of the canoes filled among the breakers; the crews were saved, but much of the lading
was lost or damaged, and one of the canoes drifted down the stream and was broken
among the rocks.
On the following day, October 21st, they made but a short distance when they came to
a dangerous strait, where the river was compressed for nearly half a mile between
perpendicular rocks, reducing it to the width of twenty yards, and increasing its
violence. Here they were obliged to pass the canoes down cautiously by a line from the
impending banks. This consumed a great part of a day; and after they had reembarked
they were soon again impeded by rapids, when they had to unload their canoes and
carry them and their cargoes for some distance by land. It is at these places, called
"portages," that the Canadian voyageur exhibits his most valuable qualities; carrying
heavy burdens, and toiling to and fro, on land and in the water, over rocks and
precipices, among brakes and brambles, not only without a murmur, but with the
greatest cheerfulness and alacrity, joking and laughing and singing scraps of old
The spirits of the party, however, which had been elated on first varying their
journeying from land to water, had now lost some of their buoyancy. Everything ahead
was wrapped in uncertainty. They knew nothing of the river on which they were floating.
It had never been navigated by a white man, nor could they meet with an Indian to give
them any information concerning it. It kept on its course through a vast wilderness of
silent and apparently uninhabited mountains, without a savage wigwam upon its banks,
or bark upon its waters. The difficulties and perils they had already passed made them
apprehend others before them, that might effectually bar their progress. As they glided
onward, however, they regained heart and hope. The current continued to be strong;
but it was steady, and though they met with frequent rapids, none of them were bad.
Mountains were constantly to be seen in different directions, but sometimes the swift
river glided through prairies, and was bordered by small cotton-wood trees and willows.
These prairies at certain seasons are ranged by migratory herds of the wide-wandering
buffalo, the tracks of which, though not of recent date, were frequently to be seen.
Here, too, were to be found the prickly pear or Indian fig, a plant which loves a more
southern climate. On the land were large flights of magpies and American robins; whole
fleets of ducks and geese navigated the river, or flew off in long streaming files at the
approach of the canoes; while the frequent establishments of the painstaking and quiet-loving beaver showed that the solitude of these waters was rarely disturbed, even by
the all-pervading savage.
They had now come near two hundred and eighty miles since leaving Fort Henry, yet
without seeing a human being, or a human habitation; a wild and desert solitude
extended on either side of the river, apparently almost destitute of animal life. At length,
on the 24th of October, they were gladdened by the sight of some savage tents, and
hastened to land and visit them, for they were anxious to procure information to guide
them on their route. On their approach, however, the savages fled in consternation.
They proved to be a wandering band of Shoshonies. In their tents were great quantities
of small fish about two inches long, together with roots and seeds, or grain, which they
were drying for winter provisions. They appeared to be destitute of tools of any kind,
yet there were bows and arrows very well made; the former were formed of pine, cedar,
or bone, strengthened by sinews, and the latter of the wood of rosebushes, and other
crooked plants, but carefully straightened, and tipped with stone of a bottle-green color.
There were also vessels of willow and grass, so closely wrought as to hold water, and a
seine neatly made with meshes, in the ordinary manner, of the fibres of wild flax or
nettle. The humble effects of the poor savages remained unmolested by their visitors,
and a few small articles, with a knife or two, were left in the camp, and were no doubt
regarded as invaluable prizes.
Shortly after leaving this deserted camp, and reembarking in the canoes, the travellers
met with three of the Snakes on a triangular raft made of flags or reeds; such was their
rude mode of navigating the river. They were entirely naked excepting small mantles of
hare skins over their shoulders. The canoes approached near enough to gain a full
view of them, but they were not to be brought to a parley.
All further progress for the day was barred by a fall in the river of about thirty feet
perpendicular; at the head of which the party encamped for the night.
The next day was one of excessive toil and but little progress: the river winding through
a wild rocky country, and being interrupted by frequent rapids, among which the canoes
were in great peril. On the succeeding day they again visited a camp of wandering
Snakes, but the inhabitants fled with terror at the sight of a fleet of canoes, filled with
white men, coming down their solitary river.
As Mr. Hunt was extremely anxious to gain information concerning his route, he
endeavored by all kinds of friendly signs to entice back the fugitives. At length one, who
was on horseback, ventured back with fear and trembling. He was better clad, and in
better condition, than most of his vagrant tribe that Mr. Hunt had yet seen. The chief
object of his return appeared to be to intercede for a quantity of dried meat and salmon
trout, which he had left behind; on which, probably, he depended for his winter's
subsistence. The poor wretch approached with hesitation, the alternate dread of famine
and of white men operating upon his mind. He made the most abject signs, imploring
Mr. Hunt not to carry off his food. The latter tried in every way to reassure him, and
offered him knives in exchange for his provisions; great as was the temptation, the poor
Snake could only prevail upon himself to spare a part; keeping a feverish watch over
the rest, lest it should be taken away. It was in vain Mr. Hunt made inquiries of him
concerning his route, and the course of the river. The Indian was too much frightened
and bewildered to comprehend him or to reply; he did nothing but alternately commend
himself to the protection of the Good Spirit, and supplicate Mr. Hunt not to take away
his fish and buffalo meat; and in this state they left him, trembling about his treasures.
In the course of that and the next day they made nearly eight miles; the river inclined to
the south of west, and being clear and beautiful, nearly half a mile in width, with many
populous communities of the beaver along its banks. The 28th of October, however,
was a day of disaster. The river again became rough and impetuous, and was chafed
and broken by numerous rapids. These grew more and more dangerous, and the
utmost skill was required to steer among them. Mr. Crooks was seated in the second
canoe of the squadron, and had an old experienced Canadian for steersman, named
Antoine Clappine, one of the most valuable of the voyageurs. The leading canoe had
glided safely among the turbulent and roaring surges, but in following it, Mr. Crooks
perceived that his canoe was bearing towards a rock. He called out to the steersman,
but his warning voice was either unheard or unheeded. In the next moment they struck
upon the rock. The canoe was split and overturned. There were five persons on board.
Mr. Crooks and one of his companions were thrown amidst roaring breakers and a
whirling current, but succeeded, by strong swimming, to reach the shore. Clappine and
two others clung to the shattered bark, and drifted with it to a rock. The wreck struck the
rock with one end, and swinging round, flung poor Clappine off into the raging stream,
which swept him away, and he perished. His comrades succeeded in getting upon the
rock, from whence they were afterwards taken off.
This disastrous event brought the whole squadron to a halt, and struck a chill into every
bosom. Indeed they had arrived at a terrific strait, that forbade all further progress in
the canoes, and dismayed the most experienced voyageur. The whole body of the river
was compressed into a space of less than thirty feet in width, between two ledges of
rocks, upwards of two hundred feet high, and formed a whirling and tumultuous vortex,
so frightfully agitated as to receive the name of "The Caldron Linn." Beyond this fearful
abyss, the river kept raging and roaring on, until lost to sight among impending