Dry Fly Swap Flies
Tied by Tim Cavileer (Moscow ID)
Standard light cahill recipe:
Hook: Mustad 94840 10-20
Thread: Cream 6/0
Wing: Lemon Wood Duck flank fibers, upright & divided
Tail: Light ginger hackle fibers
Body: Cream dubbing
Hackle: Light Ginger
Hook: Mustad 94840 #14
Thread: light olive 6/0
Wing: Mallard dyed woodduck, upright & divided
Tail: Cream hackle fibers
Body: Cream dubbing from tortise shell housecat (Gwen)
Hackle: Cream hackle
1. Select large flank feather with naturally squared-off end.
Prepare feather by stripping away soft, downy fibers at base. Fold
feather lengthwise down the stem with shiny side out. Measure folded
feather so height of finished wing equals hook-shank length.
2. Tie-in feather just ahead of midpoint shank, tips facing forward,
using several soft loops. Trim butts off at an angle.
3. Set wings upright making several turns of thread around shank in
front of wings. Divide fibers into two equal parts separating wings
by gently pulling them to the sides. Pass thread between the wings in
a figure eight pattern catching the X in the butts.
4. Select a 10-20 hackle fibers and secure the tail behind the wing.
The tail fibers fit snugly and evenly against the wing tie-in,
creating a level a level underbody.
5. The dubbed body should be sparse and wrapped short of the wing.
6. Tie in the hackle with two wraps of thread behind the wing and
five wraps infront. Wrap the hackle three turns behaind the wing and
three turns infront of the wing. Tie off the hackle. Secure with two
half-hitches and wrap a small head. Whip finish. Cement.
Patterns and tying instructions taken from:
American Fly tying Manual - Dave Hughes
Tying Dry Flies - Randall Kaufmann
The Art of Fly Tying - The Hunting & Fishing Library
Tied by John Breslin (Ottawa IL)
These instructions are for smaller sizes(#16-22), but may work for sizes
over #16, except for the post material.
Start thread at back of shank just forward of bend. Four turns to anchor
thread. Select 5-8 Coachman brown barbules from very large (5-6 in.)
feather, excluding any soft ones toward bottom of feather. Measure the
barbules against hook shank to get 1 and 1/4 of full hook length as
length of tail. Fasten to hook with not more than 4 turns directly over
anchor wraps. Wind forward to within 2 to 2 1/2 eye lengths of eye of hook.
Cut off remaining ends of tailing barbules there.
Select whitest feather from underside of duck wing, mallard drake preferred.
These are soft webby feathers. These underwing feathers are much easier and
serve the same purpose as calf hair for a post on such small flies. (A.K.
suggests turkey flats from the body sides.) Separate about 1/2 inch of barbules
and stroke them back so the tips of the barbules even up. Cut off shank of
feather while holding tips even. Measure length of post against hook shank to
get only the length of the shank, minus eye and bend, as post length. Bind
at the spot the thread was left, wrapping backwards 4 or 5 turns, cut off,
bind down, wind forward and form thread dam in front of post, 8 or so turns.
Wet base only of post with head cement and wrap 5-8 turns around post ending
up behind so you can go back to dub body.
Dub (with wax) using muskrat underfur, without any guard hairs very sparsely.
End up with a few turns of dubbing ahead of post over thread dam.
Select the hackle one size bigger than normal, e.g., #16 for a #18 fly.
Strip up to pint that the barb(quill) of the hackle feather is not too
thick. This is very important for wrapping the post which, even with the
cement reinforcement, is still pretty weak. Also, be sure to leave enough
bare barb shank on the hackle feather so the first turn doesn't start
radiating hackle barbules until it is winding the post. Of course, put the
shiny side up on the feathers, so they will curl the barbules downward in the
parachute. I prefer about 2 or 2 1/2 turns each of brown and grizzly, and
like to finish up and tie off below the hook shank, which requires holding
the wound barbules back and away and trimming below the fly, but this beats
getting barbs in the head windings. A trick I've used is to cement the
hackle shanks after tying in but before winding, allowing drying before
winding. Takes a minute, but the results are consistently better. Some people
say to wind up the post and some say wind down. I can't be quite that exact
on these small (#16-22) flies, but just try different ways on each wrap of
hackle so they look right. Much less frustrating, albeit slower.
I whip finish with a Matarelli, about 3-4 turns, and don't bother with any
head cement there, just pull it tight. Hold the post and hackle back while
Don't be afraid to turn the fly around and over and trim any errant hackle
barbules, just trim close to the body, until there is a nice parachute.
Voila. The most versatile and deadly fly in my arsenal.
Tied by Preston Larimer (Elsah IL)
Hook: Dai-riki 300, Daiichi 1170, Mustad 94840, TMC 100 -- Size 12
Thread: Size 8/0 or 6/0 olive
Crackleback (shellback): 2 strands of peacock herl, pullled full length
over top of body.
Body: syntrhetic dubbing, color of choice. pale olive is standard, for
chartruese I spindub globug yarn.
Hackle: Metz furnace
1. Tie in and wrap back to bend. Tie in a saddle, not too stiff, and dull
side facing you. Next, tie 2-3 strands of peacock herl, making sure that
peacock stays on top of hook shank.
2. Spin dub body material and wrap forward, building tapered body to just
behind eye, leaving enough room for head.
3. Pull strands of peacock herl forward, over the top of body tie them off
just behind eye, trim excess. In 5 wide wraps, palmer hackle forward to
eye, tie in and trim waste. Wrap a head, and whip finish.
This is a popular Missouri fly, designed by Ed Story, owner of Feathercraft
in St. Louis. The fly is in thier logo. It is fished dry, and then
swamped and stripped back underwaterin quick jerks. It can be tied with a
softer hackle and weighted and fished underwater as well. It is usually
tied in a size 12, and in a pale olive. I have had some sucess lately with
a chartreuse. It can be incredibly effective in Missouri trout parks during
the winter catch and release season. Although, not as popular in other
regions, it has caught fish all over.
Tied by Preston Larimer (Elsah IL)
Hook: Dai-riki 300, Mustad 94840, or TMC 100, Daiichi 1170 --Sizes 14-18
Thread: 8/0 or 6/0 black
Hackle: rear-brown, front-white
Body: Peacok herl
1. tie in thread and wrap back to bend. Tie in brown hackle to be wrapped.
Move thread 1/3 way up hook shank. Palmer brown hackle forward to thread,
covering the rear 1/3 of hook. Tie down and cut waste. Tie in 2-3 strands
of peacock herl.
2. Move thread up to the 2/3 point on hook shank. wrap peacock herl
forward to thread, building fly body. Tie off at thread. Cut away
herl. An alternative here for a stronger body is to spin the peacock on a
Dubbit spinning tool and wrap forward.
3. Tie in a white hackle, and wrap to just behind hook eye. Tie off and
cut waste. tie head and whip finish.
To fish: Great attractor pattern. Also roughly represents mays and
caddis. In small sizes it may be taken as midge clusters. Tie in several
colors, and in sizes up to a size 8. Fish dry, and swamp the fly at the
end of the drift and strip it back in short jerky strips.
Tied by Frank Cada (Loveland CO)
Hook tmc 100 #20
Thread: 8/0 olive
Body: olive dubbing
Wing: gray Zelon
Hackle: blue dun
Tie on a small ball of dubbing at the end of the hook to
prop up the tail. Tie on two fibetts up and at a 45 degree
angle from the body. Lay the Zelon on top of the hook.
Tie it forwards and then bring it back in an upright
position. Dub on the body, giving it a taper from the
rear of the hook forwards. Wrap on the hackle in front of the
Consult the river hatch chart. Usually early spring
and late fall are when the baetis hatch. Fish a dead drift.
If you see the mayflies and no rising, hook on an emerger.
You may want to trim the hackle flush with the body in
Tied by Gene Holowachuk (Cooperstown NY)
Hook: Mustad 94840, sizes 14-18
Thread: 6/0 or 8/0. Black or color to match body.
Ribbing: Grizzly hackle tied Palmer over the body. Tie full.
Barbles should be slighltly less than hook gap.
Body: Olive or green wool yarn or synthetic dubbing, tied thin.
Have also used peacock herl. Try to match naturals.
Underwing: Barred lemon wood duck fibers (or dyed mallard), sparse slips.
Fibers should just extend very slightly past bend of hook.
Wings: Natural dark grey duck quill sections tied tent style over the body
& extending just past the underwing. Cut to shape.
Hackle: Brown or ginger. Wrap two or three turns only.
Notes: Palmered hackle should be wrapped so the hackle barbles point toward
the front of the fly. Palmered hackle on top of body should be clipped off
before tying in underwing. Use no more than three wraps of brown hackle -
it is important not to over-hackle the brown legs in the thorax area. If
the grizzly Palmered hackle is of sufficient dry fly quality & tied in
full, then it will be a good floating fly. Wings should be flared &
separated so the fish below will have a good natural-looking silhouette. To
enhance the durability of the wings, coat the wing quill in advance w/
either 'hard as nails' or spray it w/ a fixative such as Tuffilm.
History: (from "Popular FLy Patterns" by Terry Hellekson, 1977, Peregrine
Smith, Inc., ISBN 0-87905-066-7): The Henryville Special was originated by
Hiram Brobst of Palmertown, PA, to duplicate caddis hatches in the
Henryville section of Brodhead Creek. He originally named it the "No-Name"
but later Al Ziegler got hold of the fly & renamed it the Henryville
Special. As w/ any fly that gets extensive use it has been tied in numerous
variations. It has proven to be a deadly fly & some feel that it is the
best caddis imitation to have ever been created.
Tied by Ivan Turner (Seattle WA)
HooK: Tiemco 200R, 5263, Dai-Riki 710 or equivalent, sizes 8-18
Thread:6/0 or 8/0 flourescent orange
Tail: Moose body hair
Ribbing: Fine gold wire
Body: Haretron dubbing in black, yellow, orange etc..
Body hackle: Neck or saddle hackle in colors such ar: dun, black,
grizzly, badger etc..
Underwing: 2-6 strands of Krystal Flash to complement the fly color
Overwing: Fly Film or Fly wing
Thorax: Flourescent fire orange Antron
Forehackle:Grixxly saddle or other contrasting color saddle hackle
Tied by Doug Kellermann (Herndon VA)
Hook: Mustad 94840 size 14
Thread: Uni-Thread Gray 8/0
Tail: Krystal Flash 9
Body: Gray Super Fine Dry Fly Dubbin Mixed with Gray SLF Dubbing
Wing: Lt. Dunn CDC-053
Comments: This fly does not require any floatant, all the literature on CDC
states that floatant will destroy the natural floating capability of the CDC.
One or two flase casts will dry this fly.
The CDC Caddis is fishable all day and is especially deadly when it drops just
below the film. The trout hit this fly very fast when it is in this location.
My understanding is that the trout know this is the most vulnerable position
for the Caddis and that the Caddis will only float on the surface for a few
seconds before flying off. The two strands of Krystal Flash for the tail add
to the effectiveness of this fly. Finally, I have tying for only a short
period, any comments would be appreciated.
1. Tie in the tail
2. Dub the body forward
3. Bunch up the tips of 2-3 CDC feathers tie in the CDC
4. Flip the CDC base over the tips and tie in this section of the CDC
5. Whip finish
6. Bunch the CDC in your fingers, and cut the CDC over the tail at 45 degrees
away from the body (this will allow the CDC to end perpendicular to the tail)
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This page compiled by Rick Lalliss for the FF@ Dry Fly Swap.
Copyright 1995, Rick Lalliss and Respective Authors