Dry Fly Swap Flies

Electrostatic Caddis
Wayne Vierhout
Mississauga Ontario CAN

BWO emerger
Herman Nijland
Wageningen Netherlands

Western Green Drake (Wulff Style)
Mike Lange
Pocatello ID

Olive Body Sparkle Compara-Dun
Michael Valentiner
Plymouth MN

Elk Hair Caddis
Ed Olson
Salt Lake City UT

Royal Wulff
Mitchell Lee
Davis CA

Royal Parachute
Tom Conner
Haslett MI

Gulper Special
Jeff Morton
Auburn WA

Electrostatic Caddis

Tied by Wayne Vierhout (Mississauga Ontario CAN)

- size 20 dry fly hook
- electronics parts antistatic bag, the glossy chrome blue/black type
- dry fly hackle in brown, dun and grizzly
- 8/0 black or brown thread

Tying instructions
1. Cut a very thin strip off of the antistatic bag.
2. Wrap thread to rear of hook.
3. Tie in antistatic bag strip.
4. Wrap thread to front of hook.
5. Wrap antistatic bag strip forward 2/3 of hook length and tie off
6. Mix long hackle fibers from brown, dun and grizzly dry fly hackle.
7. Tie these in as a tent shaped wing. EHC style if possible.
8. Tie in 3 small hackles from brown, dun and grizzly dry fly hackle.
9. Whip finish head.

This is a microcaddis imitation.

BWO emerger

Tied by Herman Nijland (Wageningen Netherlands)

Hook: Tiemco 103bl #19
Thread: grey, 8/0
Tail: grey hacklefibers
Body: olive dubbing (I use Umpqua X-fine)
Wing: Natural CDC tips
Head: rabbitfur dubbing

This pattern is one of the essentials when fishing in Europe , especially in fall. It initates a BWO, and with the tails split in a smaller size a Baetis Scambus.
I've had some good days in September on the Kyll in Germany with this fly, only changed it for a Iron Blue when the grayling seemed to start to recognise it..

Western Green Drake (Wulff Style)

Tied by Mike Lange (Pocatello ID)

Hook: Mustad 94840 (#8)
Thread: Danvilles Plus, olive
Rib: Single strand of Yellow floss
Dubbing: Green or olive dubbing of choice
Tail: Black moose (I like the long stuff, use the tips)
Hackle: Grizzly. dyed green
Wing: Regular deer, or black costal deer (see below) tied upright, split.

INSTRUCTIONS: Just like tying a Royal Wulff ('cept easier!). Tied in a medium bunch of moose hair for tail, about as long as the shank is. Then tie in you ribbing & let it hang. Dub a nice tapered body w/ the green dubbing, and rib it with the floss. Tie in the deer hair for the wing, tips forward. pull the hair up, and wrap thread in front to make it stand up. the use a criss-cross figure X to form the divided wing. Tie in the end of your hackle and wrap it forward. tie off behind the eye and whip finish. Told ya: Just like any other hair wing Wulff you ever tied.
Paradrakes are a more popular Green Drake pattern around the Henry's Fork these days, but I think that's because they look pretty to the fisherman. I'm not sure that always holds true to the fish. I've always liked this fly because it floats like a battleship, and is about as durable. I tie the tail a little longer than on most of my drys, because those Harriman Park green drakes have long black tails too.
About the wing: Right after hatching, green drake wings are lightly speckled, but they go to almost black right before the spinnerfall. I like to carry them with light deer wings, and black deer wings (I use costal deer for this, it seems softer, and ties nice wings) to match these different stages of the adult fly.
See you on the North Fork!

Olive Body Sparkle Compara-Dun

Tied by Michael Valentiner (Plymouth MN)

Hook Mustad 94840 (or other appropriate dry fly hook) sizes 16, 18, 20, 22
Thread Olive
Tail Lite gray sparkle poly yarn
Body Blue Wing Olive
Wing Coastal deer body hair

1 Lay down a base of thread back about 1/4 of the length of the shank from the eye.
2 Select a small clump of the deer hair and stack them to even the tips. Measure the deer hair equal to the length of the shank and tie it in with the tips extending foward over the eye. Make 3 or 4 wraps, each time pulling succesively tighter to make the hair flair. Clip off the excess butts and make a few more wraps to secure the hair. To get the hair to fan out correctly in the next step, you want the hair fibers lying on top and to the sides of the shank, but not underneath it.
3 Reach foward and pull the hair upright and back over the shank. Wrap a great many turns of thread in front of the hair to force it into an upright position. As you do this, fan the hair out so that as you look head on down the length of the shank, it radiates out in a 180 degree arc from horizontal left over the top to horizontal right.
4 Bring the thread back to the start of the bend and tie in a small piece of the sparkle poly yarn. I find that a piece 1/2 an inch long is long enough to work with and I seperate the yarn into fourths, since we want a light sparse tail. Once tyed in, pull back on the yarn and clip the length of the tail so it is no more than 1/2 the length of the shank.
5 Dub a sparse body to the wing and a little in front of the wing.
6 Finish with a small head and tie off.

I tie this pattern sparsely. It is not a great floater so I only fish it on still quiet water like spring creeks where the trout can be mighty finicky. The poly yarn, sparkle tail represents the tailing shuck of the mayfly as it crawls out and attempts to become airborne. The wing on this pattern has a tendency to point foward of its upright position. When you fish it, stroke the fibers back to keep the wing upright if necessary.

Elk Hair Caddis

Tied by Ed Olson (Salt Lake City UT)

Hook: Tiemco 101, size 18 strait eye
Thread: 8/0 to match body color, grey, olive, tan
Tail: cock saddle fibers, (I prefer a rust color)
Body: Dub body with body wool or other synthetic fibers to reduce water retention. Wrap the entire shank leaving only a small area for the head then wrap back 1/3 of the way down the shank.
Wing: Elk hair to match the color of the natural which can be the same as natural elk hair or bleached to a light blond color. Stack approximately 20 hair fibers to make ends even. Cut hair in a clump slightly longer than length of the shank including the eye. Lay hair along shank with the cut end even with the hook eye. Wrap thread 5-6 times around all fibers, one wrap on top of the other. Hold on to fibers tighly to prevent them from spinning around the shank.
Head: Bend the hair fibers (extending from the wraps to the eye) up and back to create the "head." Whip finish the thread below the head then tie off and cement.

Favorite fishing methods:
1- This fly floats extremely well and is very visible. Works well in small streams when cast upstream and floated in the feeding lanes.
2- Tie on a dropper to the bend of the hook about 18 inches behind this fly. A size 18 to 22 emergery or other nimph can be very effective.

Royal Wulff

Tied by Mitchell Lee (Davis CA)

Hook: Tiemco 900BL, size #20
Tail: Brown hackle fibers
Body: Peacock Herl taken from eye section using green tip portion
Waist: Orangish-red 8/0 thread, Orange looks red in small quantities
Wing: White calf body hair
Hackle: Brown Hoffman saddle hackle, strip one side for easier neater look. I only strip hackle when tying smaller than #18, Hackle density is less important in the smaller sizes.

This is a standard tie, be careful not to use too much thread nor too much tension. Herl taken from the eye of the feather is very delicate and takes some getting used to. I like the orangish thread because I never really liked the way red floss gets darker and washed out. On bigger flies I sometimes use a white thread for the whole fly all the way until laying the wraps for the waist of the fly. I then switch to a red floss over the white underwraps to get a brighter red, the fly is finished with the red floss.

Royal Parachute

Tied by Tom Conner (Haslett MI)

hook: standard dry fly
thread: black 8/0
post: white z-lon
hackle: brown
body: peacock herl, red floss, peacock herl
tail: golden pheasant tippet

1. Tie in post at 70% point. Hint: Lay z-lon flat along hook, take two wraps in center, twist z-lon 90 degrees, take two wraps figure eight fashion, pull both ends up and wrap around base to form post.
2. Tie in tail.
3. Tie in herl, move thread forward, wrap herl forward, tie down, lay herl along hook and move thread forward over herl to next tie point.
4. Tie in floss, wrap down and back, tie off and trim.
5. Wrap herl forward, tie off and trim.
6. Tie in hackle, wrap around 4 times, tie off.
7. Whip finish.

Gulper Special

Tied by Jeff Morton (Auburn WA)

This is a pattern developed by Al Troth to imitate Callebaetis (up to size 20) or Tricorythodes (size 20-24). Change wing color for conditions, such as white wing for dark surfaces and in shadows, black for flat water and dark days, or orange for foam lines and eddies. This pattern does best on lakes and slow moving water. This pattern was taken from Randall Kaufmann's "Tying Dry Flies".

Hook: 900BL or equivalent, 16-22
Thread: 8/0 Dark Brown
Wing: White, Black or Orange Polypro yarn, parachute style
Tail: Grizzly or Blue Dun Hackle Fibers
Body: Dark brown poly dubbing
Hackle: Grizzly, parachute style

1) Tie in poly yarn at the 70% mark of the hook and secure with a figure 8 pattern.
2) Roll the wing to the underside of the hook.
3) Lift the wing up and wrap up 10 turns around the wing, then wrap around the hook and wing to secure it in position. (ie: tie the wing in parachute style)
4) Tie in a flaired tail.
5) Wrap dubbing from the tail to the wing.
6) Tie in the hackle flat (parachute style), shiny side up. Position the thread at the front of the tie-off area.
7) Wrap the hackle around the wing post and tie off.
8) Dub more poly dubbing onto the thread and wind forward, being careful to cover the portion of the body that is beneath the wing.
9) Finish the head with a whip finish and lacquer.
10) Trim the wing to shape.

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This page compiled by Rick Lalliss for the FF@ Dry Fly Swap.
Copyright 1995, Rick Lalliss and Respective Authors
EMail: lalliss@aros.net