CHAPTER XXXIX.
Scanty Fare During the Winter.- A Poor Hunting Ground.- The Return of the
Fishing Season.- The Uthlecan or Smelt.- Its Qualities. - Vast Shoals of it.-
Sturgeon.- Indian Modes of Taking It.- The Salmon- Different Species.-
Nature of the Country About the Coast. -Forests and Forest Trees.- A
Remarkable Flowering Vine.- Animals. - Birds.- Reptiles - Climate West of
the Mountains - Mildness of the Temperature.- Soil of the Coast and the
Interior.
THE winter passed away tranquilly at Astoria. The apprehensions of hostility
from the natives had subsided; indeed, as the season advanced, the Indians
for the most part had disappeared from the neighborhood, and abandoned
the sea-coast, so that, for want of their aid, the colonists had at times
suffered considerably for want of provisions. The hunters belonging to the
establishment made frequent and wide excursions, but with very moderate
success. There were some deer and a few bears to be found in the vicinity,
and elk in great numbers; the country, however, was so rough, and the
woods so close and entangled that it was almost impossible to beat up the
game. The prevalent rains of winter, also, rendered it difficult for the hunter
to keep his arms in order. The quantity of game, therefore, brought in by
the hunters was extremely scanty, and it was frequently necessary to put
all hands on very moderate allowance. Towards spring, however, the fishing
season commenced - the season of plenty on the Columbia. About the
beginning of February, a small kind of fish, about six inches long, called by
the natives the uthlecan, and resembling the smelt, made its appearance at
the mouth of the river. It is said to be of delicious flavor, and so fat as to
burn like a candle, for which it is often used by the natives. It enters the
river in immense shoals, like solid columns, often extending to the depth of
five or more feet, and is scooped up by the natives with small nets at the
end of poles. In this way they will soon fill a canoe, or form a great heap
upon the river banks. These fish constitute a principal article of their food;
the women drying them and stringing them on cords. As the uthlecan is
only found in the lower part of the river, the arrival of it soon brought back
the natives to the coast; who again resorted to the factory to trade, and
from that time furnished plentiful supplies of fish.
The sturgeon makes its appearance in the river shortly after the uthlecan,
and is taken in different ways by the natives: sometimes they spear it; but
oftener they use the hook and line, and the net. Occasionally, they sink a
cord in the river by a heavy weight, with a buoy at the upper end, to keep
floating. To this cord several hooks are attached by short lines, a few feet
distant from each other, and baited with small fish. This apparatus is often
set towards night, and by the next morning several sturgeon will be found
hooked by it; for though a large and strong fish, it makes but little
resistance when ensnared.
The salmon, which are the prime fish of the Columbia, and as important to
the piscatory tribes as are the buffaloes to the hunters of the prairies, do
not enter the river until towards the latter part of May, from which time,
until the middle of August, they abound and are taken in vast quantities,
either with the spear or seine, and mostly in shallow water. An inferior
species succeeds, and continues from August to December. It is remarkable
for having a double row of teeth, half an inch long and extremely sharp,
from whence it has received the name of the dog-toothed salmon. It is
generally killed with the spear in small rivulets, and smoked for winter
provision. We have noticed in a former chapter the mode in which the
salmon are taken and cured at the falls of the Columbia; and put tip in
parcels for exportation. From these different fisheries of the river tribes, the
establishment at Astoria had to derive much of its precarious supplies of
provisions.
A year's residence at the mouth of the Columbia, and various expeditions in
the interior, had now given the Astorians some idea of the country. The
whole coast is described as remarkably rugged and mountainous; with
dense forests of hemlock, spruce, white and red cedar, cotton-wood, white
oak, white and swamp ash, willow, and a few walnut. There is likewise an
undergrowth of aromatic shrubs, creepers, and clambering vines, that
render the forests almost impenetrable; together with berries of various
kinds, such as gooseberries, strawberries, raspberries, both red and yellow,
very large and finely flavored whortleberries, cranberries, serviceberries,
blackberries, currants, sloes, and wild and choke cherries.
Among the flowering vines is one deserving of particular notice. Each flower
is composed of six leaves or petals, about three inches in length, of a
beautiful crimson, the inside spotted with white. Its leaves, of a fine green,
are oval, and disposed by threes. This plant climbs upon the trees without
attaching itself to them; when it has reached the topmost branches, it
descends perpendicularly, and as it continues to grow, extends from tree to
tree, until its various stalks interlace the grove like the rigging of a ship.
The stems or trunks of this vine are tougher and more flexible than willow,
and are from fifty to one hundred fathoms in length. From the fibres, the
Indians manufacture baskets of such close texture as to hold water.
The principal quadrupeds that had been seen by the colonists in their
various expeditions were the stag, fallow deer, hart, black and grizzly bear,
antelope, ahsahta or bighorn, beaver, sea and river otter, muskrat, fox,
wolf, and panther, the latter extremely rare. The only domestic animals
among the natives were horses and dogs.
The country abounded with aquatic and land birds, such as swans, wild
geese, brant, ducks of almost every description, pelicans, herons, gulls,
snipes, curlews, eagles, vultures, crows, ravens, magpies, woodpeckers,
pigeons, partridges, pheasants, grouse, and a great variety of singing birds.
There were few reptiles; the only dangerous kinds were the rattlesnake, and
one striped with black, yellow, and white, about four feet long. Among the
lizard kind was one about nine or ten inches in length, exclusive of the tall,
and three inches in circumference. The tail was round, and of the same
length as the body. The head was triangular, covered with small square
scales. The upper part of the body was likewise covered with small scales,
green, yellow, black, and blue. Each foot had five toes, furnished with
strong nails, probably to aid it in burrowing, as it usually lived under ground
on the plains.
A remarkable fact, characteristic of the country west of the Rocky
Mountains, is the mildness and equability of the climate. The great
mountain barrier seems to divide the continent into different climates, even
in the same degrees of latitude. The rigorous winters and sultry summers,
and all the capricious inequalities of temperature prevalent on the Atlantic
side of the mountains, are but little felt on their western declivities. The
countries between them and the Pacific are blessed with milder and steadier
temperature, resembling the climates of parallel latitudes in Europe. In the
plains and valleys but little snow falls throughout the winter, and usually
melts while falling. It rarely lies on the ground more than two days at a
time, except on the summits of the mountains. The winters are rainy rather
than cold. The rains for five months, from the middle of October to the
middle of March, are almost incessant, and often accompanied by
tremendous thunder and lightning. The winds prevalent at this season are
from the south and southeast, which usually bring rain. Those from the
north to the southwest are the harbingers of fair weather and a clear sky.
The residue of the year, from the middle of March to the middle of October,
an interval of seven months, is serene and delightful. There is scarcely any
rain throughout this time, yet the face of the country is kept fresh and
verdant by nightly dews, and occasionally by humid fogs in the mornings.
These are not considered prejudicial to health, since both the natives and
the whites sleep in the open air with perfect impunity. While this equable
and bland temperature prevails throughout the lower country, the peaks
and ridges of the vast mountains by which it is dominated, are covered with
perpetual snow. This renders them discernible at a great distance, shining
at times like bright summer clouds, at other times assuming the most aerial
tints, and always forming brilliant and striking features in the vast
landscape. The mild temperature prevalent throughout the country is
attributed by some to the succession of winds from the Pacific Ocean,
extending from latitude twenty degrees to at least fifty degrees north.
These temper the heat of summer, so that in the shade no one is
incommoded by perspiration; they also soften the rigors of winter, and
produce such a moderation in the climate, that the inhabitants can wear the
same dress throughout the year.
The soil in the neighborhood of the sea-coast is of a brown color, inclining
to red, and generally poor; being a mixture of clay and gravel. In the
interior, and especially in the valleys of the Rocky Mountains, the soil is
generally blackish, though sometimes yellow. It is frequently mixed with
marl, and with marine substances in a state of decomposition. This kind of
soil extends to a considerable depth, as may be perceived in the deep cuts
made by ravines, and by the beds of rivers. The vegetation in these valleys
is much more abundant than near the coast; in fact, it is these fertile
intervals, locked up between rocky sierras, or scooped out from barren
wastes, that population must extend itself, as it were, in veins and
ramifications, if ever the regions beyond the mountains should become
civilized.