CHAPTER XLI.
Spring Arrangements at Astoria.- Various Expeditions Set Out.- The Long
Narrows.- Pilfering Indians.- Thievish Tribe at Wish-ram. - Portage at the
Falls- Portage by Moonlight.- An Attack, a Route, and a Robbery.- Indian
Cure for Cowardice.- A Parley and Compromise.- The Despatch Party Turn
Back.- Meet Crooks and John Day.- Their Sufferings.- Indian Perfidy.- Arrival
at Astoria.
AS the spring opened, the little settlement of Astoria was in agitation, and
prepared to send forth various expeditions. Several important things were
to be done. It was necessary to send a supply of goods to the trading post
of Mr. David Stuart, established in the preceding autumn on the Oakinagan.
The cache, or secret deposit, made by Mr. Hunt at the Caldron Linn, was
likewise to be visited, and the merchandise and other effects left there, to
be brought to Astoria. A third object of moment was to send despatches
overland to Mr. Astor at New York, informing him of the state of affairs at
the settlement, and the fortunes of the several expeditions.
The task of carrying supplies to Oakinagan was assigned to Mr. Robert
Stuart, a spirited and enterprising young man, nephew to the one who had
established the post. The cache was to be sought out by two of the clerks,
named Russell Farnham and Donald M'Gilles, conducted by a guide, and
accompanied by eight men, to assist in bringing home the goods.
As to the despatches, they were confided to Mr. John Reed, the clerk, the
same who had conducted one of the exploring detachments of Snake River.
He was now to trace back his way across the mountains by the same route
by which he had come, with no other companions or escort than Ben Jones,
the Kentucky hunter, and two Canadians. As it was still hoped that Mr.
Crooks might be in existence, and that Mr. Reed and his party might meet
with him in the course of their route, they were charged with a small supply
of goods and provisions, to aid that gentleman on his way to Astoria.
When the expedition of Reed was made known, Mr. M'Lellan announced his
determination to accompany it. He had long been dissatisfied with the
smallness of his interest in the copartnership, and had requested an
additional number of shares; his request not being complied with, he
resolved to abandon the company. M'Lellan was a man of a singularly self-willed and decided character, with whom persuasion was useless; he was
permitted, therefore, to take his own course without opposition.
As to Reed, he set about preparing for his hazardous journey with the zeal
of a true Irishman. He had a tin case made, in which the letters and papers
addressed to Mr. Astor were carefully soldered up. This case he intended to
strap upon his shoulders, so as to bear it about with him, sleeping and
waking, in all changes and chances, by land or by water, and never to part
with it but with his life!
As the route of these several parties would be the same for nearly four
hundred miles up the Columbia, and within that distance would lie through
the piratical pass of the rapids, and among the freebooting tribes of the
river, it was thought advisable to start about the same time, and to keep
together. Accordingly, on the 22d of March, they all set off, to the number
of seventeen men, in two canoes - and here we cannot but pause to notice
the hardihood of these several expeditions, so insignificant in point of force,
and severally destined to traverse immense wildernesses where larger
parties had experienced so much danger and distress. When recruits were
sought in the preceding year among experienced hunters and voyageurs at
Montreal and St. Louis, it was considered dangerous to attempt to cross the
Rocky Mountains with less than sixty men; and yet here we find Reed ready
to push his way across those barriers with merely three companions. Such
is the fearlessness, the insensibility to danger, which men acquire by the
habitude of constant risk. The mind, like the body, becomes callous by
exposure.
The little associated band proceeded up the river, under the command of
Mr. Robert Stuart, and arrived early in the month of April at the Long
Narrows, that notorious plundering place. Here it was necessary to unload
the canoes, and to transport both them and their cargoes to the head of the
Narrows by land. Their party was too few in number for the purpose. They
were obliged, therefore, to seek the assistance of the Cathlasco Indians,
who undertook to carry the goods on their horses. Forward then they set,
the Indians with their horses well freighted, and the first load convoyed by
Reed and five men, well armed; the gallant Irishman striding along at the
head, with his tin case of despatches glittering on his back. In passing,
however, through a rocky and intricate defile, some of the freebooting
vagrants turned their horses up a narrow path and galloped off, carrying
with them two bales of goods, and a number of smaller articles. To follow
them was useless; indeed, it was with much ado that the convoy got into
port with the residue of the cargoes; for some of the guards were pillaged of
their knives and pocket handkerchiefs, and the lustrous tin case of Mr. John
Reed was in imminent jeopardy.
Mr. Stuart heard of these depredations, and hastened forward to the relief
of the convoy, but could not reach them before dusk, by which time they
had arrived at the village of Wish-ram, already noted for its great fishery,
and the knavish propensities of its inhabitants. Here they found themselves
benighted in a strange place, and surrounded by savages bent on pilfering,
if not upon open robbery. Not knowing what active course to take, they
remained under arms all night, without closing an eye, and at the very first
peep of dawn, when objects were yet scarce visible, everything was hastily
embarked, and, without seeking to recover the stolen effects, they pushed
off from shore, "glad to bid adieu," as they said, "to this abominable nest of
miscreants."
The worthies of Wish-ram, however, were not disposed to part so easily
with their visitors. Their cupidity had been quickened by the plunder which
they had already taken, and their confidence increased by the impunity with
which their outrage had passed. They resolved, therefore, to take further
toll of the travellers, and, if possible, to capture the tin case of despatches;
which shining conspicuously from afar, and being guarded by John Reed
with such especial care, must, as they supposed, be "a great medicine."
Accordingly, Mr. Stuart and his comrades had not proceeded far in the
canoes, when they beheld the whole rabble of Wishram stringing in groups
along the bank, whooping and yelling, and gibbering in their wild jargon,
and when they landed below the falls, they were surrounded by upwards of
four hundred of these river ruffians, armed with bows and arrows, war
clubs, and other savage weapons. These now pressed forward, with offers to
carry the canoes and effects up the portage. Mr Stuart declined forwarding
the goods, alleging the lateness of the hour; but, to keep them in good
humor, informed them, that, if they conducted themselves well, their
offered services might probably be accepted in the morning; in the
meanwhile, he suggested that they might carry up the canoes. They
accordingly set off with the two canoes on their shoulders, accompanied by
a guard of eight men well armed.
When arrived at the head of the falls, the mischievous spirit of the savages
broke out, and they were on the point of destroying the canoes, doubtless
with a view to impede the white men from carrying forward their goods, and
laying them open to further pilfering. They were with some difficulty
prevented from committing this outrage by the interference of an old man,
who appeared to have authority among them; and, in consequence of his
harangue, the whole of the hostile band, with the exception of about fifty,
crossed to the north side of the river, where they lay in wait, ready for
further mischief.
In the meantime, Mr. Stuart, who had remained at the foot of the falls with
the goods, and who knew that the proffered assistance of the savages was
only for the purpose of having an opportunity to plunder, determined, if
possible, to steal a march upon them, and defeat their machinations. In the
dead of the night, therefore, about one o'clock, the moon shining brightly,
he roused his party, and proposed that they should endeavor to transport
the goods themselves, above the falls, before the sleeping savages could be
aware of their operations. All hands sprang to the work with zeal, and
hurried it on in the hope of getting all over before daylight. Mr. Stuart went
forward with the first loads, and took his station at the head of the portage,
while Mr. Reed and Mr. M'Lellan remained at the foot to forward the
remainder.
The day dawned before the transportation was completed. Some of the fifty
Indians who had remained on the south side of the river, perceived what
was going on, and, feeling themselves too weak for an attack, gave the
alarm to those on the opposite side, upwards of a hundred of whom
embarked in several large canoes. Two loads of goods yet remained to be
brought up. Mr. Stuart despatched some of the people for one of the loads,
with a request to Mr. Reed to retain with him as many of the men as he
thought necessary to guard the remaining load, as he suspected hostile
intentions on the part of the Indians. Mr. Reed, however, refused to retain
any of them, saying that M'Lellan and himself were sufficient to protect the
small quantity that remained. The men accordingly departed with the load,
while Mr. Reed and M'Lellan continued to mount guard over the residue. By
this time, a number of the canoes had arrived from the opposite side. As
they approached the shore, the unlucky tin box of John Reed, shining afar
like the brilliant helmet of Euryalus, caught their eyes. No sooner did the
canoes touch the shore, than they leaped forward on the rocks, set up a
war-whoop, and sprang forward to secure the glittering prize. Mr. M'Lellan,
who was at the river bank, advanced to guard the goods, when one of the
savages at tempted to hoodwink him with his buffalo robe with one hand,
and to stab him with the other. M'Lellan sprang back just far enough to
avoid the blow, and raising his rifle, shot the ruffian through the heart.
In the meantime, Reed, who with the want of forethought of an Irishman,
had neglected to remove the leathern cover from the lock of his rifle, was
fumbling at the fastenings, when he received a blow on the head with a war
club that laid him senseless on the ground. In a twinkling he was stripped
of his rifle and pistols, and the tin box, the cause of all this onslaught, was
borne off in triumph.
At this critical juncture, Mr. Stuart, who had heard the war-whoop, hastened
to the scene of action with Ben Jones, and seven others of the men. When
he arrived, Reed was weltering in his blood, and an Indian standing over
him and about to despatch him with a tomahawk. Stuart gave the word,
when Ben Jones leveled his rifle, and shot the miscreant on the spot. The
men then gave a cheer, and charged upon the main body of the savages,
who took to instant flight. Reed was now raised from the ground, and borne
senseless and bleeding to the upper end of the portage. Preparations were
made to launch the canoes and embark in all haste, when it was found that
they were too leaky to be put in the water, and that the oars had been left
at the foot of the falls. A scene of confusion now ensued. The Indians were
whooping and yelling, and running about like fiends. A panic seized upon
the men, at being thus suddenly checked, the hearts of some of the
Canadians died within them, and two young men actually fainted away. The
moment they recovered their senses, Mr. Stuart ordered that they should be
deprived of their arms, their under garments taken off, and that a piece of
cloth should be tied round their waists, in imitation of a squaw; an Indian
punishment for cowardice. Thus equipped, they were stowed away among
the goods in one of the canoes. This ludicrous affair excited the mirth of the
bolder spirits, even in the midst of their perils, and roused the pride of the
wavering. The Indians having crossed back again to the north side, order
was restored, some of the hands were sent back for the oars, others set to
work to calk and launch the canoes, and in a little while all were embarked
and were continuing their voyage along the southern shore.
No sooner had they departed, than the Indians returned to the scene of
action, bore off their two comrades who had been shot, one of whom was
still living, and returned to their village. Here they killed two horses; and
drank the hot blood to give fierceness to their courage. They painted and
arrayed themselves hideously for battle; performed the dead dance round
the slain, and raised the war song of vengeance. Then mounting their
horses to the number of four hundred and fifty men, and brandishing their
weapons, they set off along the northern bank of the river, to get ahead of
the canoes, lie in wait for them, and take a terrible revenge on the white
men.
They succeeded in getting some distance above the canoes without being
discovered, and were crossing the river to post themselves on the side
along which the white men were coasting, when they were fortunately
descried. Mr. Stuart and his companions were immediately on the alert. As
they drew near to the place where the savages had crossed, they observed
them posted among steep and overhanging rocks, close along which, the
canoes would have to pass. Finding that the enemy had the advantage of
the ground, the whites stopped short when within five hundred yards of
them, and discharged and reloaded their pieces. They then made a fire, and
dressed the wounds of Mr. Reed, who had received five severe gashes in the
head. This being done, they lashed the canoes together, fastened them to a
rock at a small distance from the shore, and there awaited the menaced
attack.
They had not been long posted in this manner, when they saw a canoe
approaching. It contained the war-chief of the tribe, and three of his
principal warriors. He drew near, and made a long harangue, in which he
informed them that they had killed one and wounded another of his nation;
that the relations of the slain cried out for vengeance, and he had been
compelled to lead them to fight. Still he wished to spare unnecessary
bloodshed; he proposed, therefore, that Mr. Reed, who, he observed, was
little better than a dead man, might be given up to be sacrificed to the
manes of the deceased warrior. This would appease the fury of his friends;
the hatchet would then be buried, and all thenceforward would be friends.
The answer was a stern refusal and a defiance, and the war-chief saw that
the canoes were well prepared for a vigorous defense. He withdrew,
therefore, and returning to his warriors among the rocks held long
deliberations. Blood for blood is a principle in Indian equity and Indian
honor; but though the inhabitants of Wish-ram were men of war, they were
likewise men of traffic, and it was suggested that honor for once might give
way to profit. A negotiation was accordingly opened with the white men,
and after some diplomacy, the matter was compromised for a blanket to
cover the dead, and some tobacco to be smoked by the living. This being
granted, the heroes of Wish-ram crossed the river once more, returned to
their villages to feast upon the horses whose blood they had so
vaingloriously drunk, and the travellers pursued their voyage without
further molestation.
The tin case, however, containing the important despatches for New York,
was irretrievably lost; the very precaution taken by the worthy Hibernian to
secure his missives, had, by rendering them conspicuous, produced their
robbery. The object of his overland journey, therefore, being defeated, he
gave up the expedition. The whole party repaired with Mr. Robert Stuart to
the establishment of Mr. David Stuart, on the Oakinagan River. After
remaining here two or three days, they all set out on their return to Astoria
accompanied by Mr. David Stuart. This gentleman had a large quantity of
beaver skins at his establishment, but did not think it prudent to take them
with him. fearing the levy of "black mail" at the falls.
On their way down, when below the forks of the Columbia, they were hailed
one day from the shore in English. Looking around, they descried two
wretched men, entirely naked. They pulled to shore; the men came up and
made themselves known. They proved to be Mr. Crooks and his faithful
follower, John Day.
The reader will recollect that Mr. Crooks, with Day and four Canadians, had
been so reduced by famine and fatigue, that Mr. Hunt was obliged to leave
them, in the month of December, on the banks of the Snake River. Their
situation was the more critical, as they were in the neighborhood of a band
of Shoshonies, whose horses had been forcibly seized by Mr. Hunt's party
for provisions. Mr. Crooks remained here twenty days, detained by the
extremely reduced state of John Day, who was utterly unable to travel, and
whom he would not abandon, as Day had been in his employ on the
Missouri, and had always proved himself most faithful. Fortunately the
Shoshonies did not offer to molest them. They had never before seen white
men, and seemed to entertain some superstitions with regard to them, for
though they would encamp near them in the daytime, they would move off
with their tents in the night; and finally disappeared, without taking leave.
When Day was sufficiently recovered to travel, they kept feebly on,
sustaining themselves as well as they could, until in the month of February,
when three of the Canadians, fearful of perishing with want, left Mr. Crooks
on a small river, on the road by which Mr Hunt had passed in quest of
Indians. Mr. Crooks followed Mr. Hunt's track in the snow for several days,
sleeping as usual in the open air, and suffering all kinds of hardships. At
length, coming to a low prairie, he lost every appearance Of the "trail," and
wandered during the remainder of the winter in the mountains, subsisting
sometimes on horse meat, sometimes on beavers and their skins, and a
part of the time on roots.
About the last of March, the other Canadian gave out and was left with a
lodge of Shoshonies; but Mr. Crooks and John Day still kept on, and finding
the snow sufficiently diminished, undertook, from Indian information, to
cross the last mountain ridge. They happily succeeded, and afterwards fell
in with the Wallah-Wallahs, a tribe of Indians inhabiting the banks of a river
of the same name, and reputed as being frank, hospitable, and sincere.
They proved worthy of the character, for they received the poor wanderers
kindly, killed a horse for them to eat, and directed them on their way to the
Columbia. They struck the river about the middle of April, and advanced
down it one hundred miles, until they came within about twenty miles of
the falls.
Here they met with some of the "chivalry" of that noted pass, who received
them in a friendly way, and set food before them; but, while they were
satisfying their hunger, perfidiously seized their rifles. They then stripped
them naked, and drove them off, refusing the entreaties of Mr. Crooks for a
flint and steel of which they had robbed him; and threatening his life if he
did not instantly depart
In this forlorn plight, still worse off than before, they renewed their
wanderings. They now sought to find their way back to the hospitable
Wallah-Wallahs, and had advanced eighty miles along the river, when
fortunately, on the very morning that they were going to leave the
Columbia and strike inland, the canoes of Mr. Stuart hove in sight.
It is needless to describe the joy of these poor men at once more finding
themselves among countrymen and friends, or of the honest and hearty
welcome with which they were received by their fellow adventurers. The
whole party now continued down the river, passed all the dangerous places
without interruption, and arrived safely at Astoria on the 11th of May.