Hang Gliding - FAQ - What's needed?
Okay, now you have almost completed flying lessons. You know a bit about the air, and have some good experience on novice-rated gliders. You really want to buy your own glider, and you are READY. If everybody knows the seller, and all the local experts are saying that you are getting a great deal on exactly the glider to match your skills, maybe you should listen up. If only the people who have a money interest in the deal are in favor of it, maybe you need to ignore the flacks, and listen to your friends instead. The pilot who sells you a glider should be expecting you to be a friend for life.
So, if you can't kick the tires, how do you know if you are getting a good price, on a good glider? Well, you *could* ask a lot of good questions, and then listen carefully to the answers. If you get a blanket refusal by the seller to answer "a lot of fool questions", then *run*, do not walk, to the nearest exit. Otherwise, I'd have to wish you the best of luck.
The usual run of questions goes about like this:
* Will this glider out-perform every hang glider ever built?
* Can I pick it up from you today?
* Will you take monthly payments? :-)
It would be much better to hear the new pilot asking the owner (or broker):
* Can an expert "test fly" this glider for me, to see if they think that it is safe for me? (-This is the most important issue. A new pilot could cause a good glider to act badly, or blame their own lack of skill for a serious handling problem that needs repairs. Whether a glider is new or used, the independent opinion of an experienced pilot, -after- a test flight, could preserve your wallet, and even your health.)
* Is this glider safe, for my level of experience? (-This assumes that you don't know everything, yet.)
* How many sun hours (UV) are on the sail? (-Sail material should be smooth and "crispy", almost like a sheet of plastic. It should not feel like an old bed-sheet that you can breathe through. It should not feel like very fine sandpaper with many broken threads in the weave, either; that is a sign of 'way too much sunlight. Sun-fading of the sail color, *anywhere* in the sail, is also a very serious indicator that an old sail is now trash. Nobody makes replacement sails for very old gliders, and if they did, you could buy a newer complete glider, cheaper than buying a new sail.)
* I'm a beginner. I need a written set of instructions to assemble this glider properly. You can *not* expect me to remember, or guess, about the entire assembly procedure, or how and where certain parts should be installed.
* Ever had the sail off to inspect the frame? I want the local HG experts to do that, with this glider and me, before I buy it.
* Do you have the owner's manual and rib pattern for this glider? (-Older gliders may have flat "ribs" or sail battens, and gliders that old are probably not airworthy.)
* How does this glider fly, compared to what I normally fly?
* What is the pilot weight range for this glider?
* What pilot proficiency rating does the factory set, for this glider?
* What is the safety record for this model of glider, overall?
* Does this glider have a steel cable inside the control bar basetube? If not, how much will it cost me to get one?
* Why is the owner selling this wing?
* Who flies with the seller, usually? (-Those other pilots might have some good advice or information for you, but you have to get them talking in private.)
* What options come with this glider (-wheels, extra tubes, spare bolts, bags, et c.)?
* I need this glider de-tuned to very mellow flying characteristics, and a written list of the things I need to change, for when I want it back to the highly tuned condition.
* What is best about this glider?
* What is worst about this glider?
* Has this glider ever been crashed? How badly? Who repaired it? Are all the parts now new factory items, or did somebody cut and drill blank tubes?
* Do they still make this glider?
* How old is this glider?
* How old are the cables? (-IMHO, five years is pushing the limits, due to possible internal corrosion and/or metal fatigue in the cables. You can not see this problem, so we just change cables by a schedule.)
* Does the factory still sell parts for this glider?
* Are all of the rib pockets in the sail okay?
* What are the stall characteristics of this glider?
* Tell me exactly how to land this wing well.
* Then show me how *you* land it. (-If the owner can not or will not fly the glider, then maybe you should not fly it, either.)
* How good will this glider's resale value be, in a year or two?
* Will you take monthly payments? :-)
Now, every answer may not be what you wanted to hear. Each answer, great or poor, can affect the price you pay, or even kill the deal. You will need good friendly advice from local experts to make a fair evaluation of the glider, the seller, and the price.
Yeah, I know, the glider looks beautiful to you, and it would, even if it had warts; your first impulse will be to buy it at any price. Listen to your local HG experts, instead. A great price on a lousy glider (or on a glider too advanced for you) is still a bad deal. About half of the questions above can also be answered by local HG pilots, as well as the seller. All of those answers should agree. An owner might tell you that the glider has never been Whacked, or is fine for a beginner, but local pilots may tell you otherwise.
If you are buying a brand-new glider, you might want to think you can just forget all of the above questions. The reverse is true; all of those questions are still valid. Only a few of the answers will be better. If you think a dealer can get a new glider shipped to you with no risk of damage in transit, then I have a bridge that I want to sell you. "Shipping tubes" can get totaled, in transit; somebody had better take a careful look at that brand-new glider, if it arrives in a damaged shipping tube.
When buying any glider, new or used, watch out for non-responsive answers here. For example, if you ask if all of the rib pockets are good, and the seller says the glider only has X number of hours on it, instead of giving you a straight answer, make a written note of that. It will be one more thing that you will have to check out more carefully than normal.
Do not believe that you can get just any old glider repaired, just anywhere. If you find a glider that is good, but maybe needs new cables, put the deal on hold for a short while. Check with the factory or other reputable HG shop first, to see if any needed parts are reasonable in cost, and easily available. Surprises can be expensive, both in time or money. This is about like buying a car; you might see some real junk, before the sweet deal appears. Don't be hasty, and don't get discouraged. Good deals are out there, if you care to look. HG clubs are usually the best sources of good, used gear.
Buying a glider for the first time, you might think that another HG pilot could "claim-jump" on a glider that you hope to buy. This idea might make you want to buy first, and ask questions later; that is a BAD plan. Maybe that idea is possible, but it is really unlikely. In most cases, the expert HG pilot already has a good glider now, and maybe two. They probably do not need another glider. Secondly, the glider that you need as a beginner, would have little interest for an advanced HG pilot. Thirdly, HG is a fairly small community, and a pilot could lose a few friends, if they did that to a newcomer.
If the idea of losing out on a "deal" might keep you from asking advice, then start with some general questions, first. Ask on the Internet forums, linked at the end of this page; there, you don't have to tell anybody where the glider is, or who is selling it, to get decent advice. Also, you can go to HG club meetings, or out to the flying sites. Pick a pilot to approach for advice. Ask if they would be interested in buying a glider like the one you want. Ask what they might pay for one. If the money they might offer is far below the asking price, then you need to find out why, before you buy. If they tell you that they have no interest in a glider like that, then ask why. They might tell you that it's a beginner-class glider, or they have the glider that they want already, or it's too old, or a poor design, or that they have no money for any more gliders now. If you get responses that you like, then it is probably "safe" to let the HG expert see the "deal" that you have been offered. Ask if they know the seller, and anything good or bad about that person. Then ask all the usual questions about the glider, seller, and pricing. In reality, there -are- other gliders for sale, so if one deal eludes you somehow, just relax. Another deal will turn up soon.
Yeah, there is more to buying a glider than matching it to your skills and learning it's history. The physical inspection is the most important aspect of the deal. THAT PHYSICAL INSPECTION IS TOO MUCH TO COVER HERE. Look to HG clubs and HG shops for the technical expertise necessary. If a good HG club or shop is only available in the next state or province, well, mount up and go there, with the glider. It's your life that is at stake if you do not; don't tell me that you are too busy. Few HG pilots would shun a new pilot. Make new friends among the flying community. The experts in this sport have knowledge that you cannot get, any place else on Earth. If you think that a university can tell you why any glider is safe or not, then I *dare* you to go ask them. They do not know.
I am a proponent of sail-off frame inspections. Yeah, the would-be buyer pays a pro to do this, win or lose. I have heard of a reputable(?) dealer telling a pilot that their shop has NEVER done a sail-off inspection in the process of selling a glider. That is difficult for me to accept. You have to wonder if they sleep well at night, if that were true. I would *bet* that those same folks do sail-off inspections of their own personal gliders. Let The Buyer Beware, I guess. Personally, I would never sell a glider to any pilot that I would not buy if I were in their position, at that price. I have had the time to answer all their questions. Every glider was checked out, inside and out, before the new owner got it. Maybe I'm just a fanatic.
You should plan on replacing the bottom cables (at least) on any glider, about every two years. It's just good aircraft maintenance. Corrosion and metal fatigue can take a toll on cables, over time. That old cable may look okay, but if it is too old, that cable may fail when shock-loaded. New cables will withstand constant loads, and especially shock-loads, much better than old cables will. It's a minor consideration, if you are buying a used glider; you should not let the (additional) low cost of new cables make you decide to buy a new glider, instead. That would be like buying a new car to avoid the cost of new tires, for a good used car. You'd just be spending a lot of money, to avoid spending a little.
You might wonder why I say all of this. It's simple, really. I have had a good friend catch a (safe) parachute ride to the bottom, because the pilot trusted too easily, and the seller was only looking out for himself. That whole episode was entirely unnecessary! Maybe if *you* ever dive after a friend in their busted glider, hoping their 'chute deployment works perfectly, and cheering out loud when it does, then you might become a fanatic, too. :-)
Buying On-Line:
I do not recommend buying HG equipment on-line. Even "slight" defects in the condition of the item may be serious, or even deadly to you. Unless you are willing to gamble on throwing away the item and your money, do not do this. If you fall into some of the "better," more sophisticated scams, ALL of your money AND YOUR CREDIT can be completely wiped out. I can't advise you on every possibility on-line, so I will only say DON'T go there.
I do not use PayPal for anything, and if you Google for "PayPal Horror Stories," you will learn why not. Scams or no scams, you will be amazed that these guys are still in business, or that anybody would consider using them. Now, I'm going to tell you more than I know. To defend against some of the PayPal operations, some Paypal users are getting pre-paid "credit" cards, the "Green Dot" card, sold in various places. That way, nobody can keep charging you repeatedly for more money, then.
Last I heard, the scammers can use Western Union to defraud you for all the money you have, also. I hope they can fix this problem. Investigate this further, if you need to, but a word to the wise, here.
Cashier's Checks are no guarantee, either. There are many examples of counterfeit Cashier's Checks. Your bank will cash them, but within a few months, the check will "clear." If the check turns out to be counterfeit, or drawn on non-existent funds, then YOU are on the hook for the full amount of the check, to your bank. There will be no appeal, and you may face criminal charges, if you do not pay up. I once got a Cashier's Check out of the blue for US$4600.00 and some really clever instructions to use a little, and keep the rest, for my trouble. I told my bank that I was NOT presenting this check for payment, but suspected a fraud instead. They tracked it, as if to "clear" the check, and it was worthless paper, drawn on a non-existent account. We all laughed, and I tore up the Cashier's Check there.
What is left? I do not have a good answer. If anybody has a good answer, please email me. Within the USA, I go with Postal Money Orders, and only by the U.S. Mail. It may be slower, but here, heavy mail-fraud charges would apply to any fraud, and most bad-guys really do not want the Federal Government after them. The Postal Money Order, and use of the U.S. mail, guarantees Federal notice of the crime.
Best of luck.
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