Swiss Rock Guides

The Grand Tour

Mt. Blanc, Matterhorn and Eiger

Photo by Freddy. Mt. Blanc seen from the Aig. du Midi

This is a great combination of the highest peaks in the western European Alps, with striking wild peaks in granite, limestone and gneiss rock surrounded by the biggest glaciers in Europe.

Rated D to PD or SZ to S 9 (to compare difficulty ratings please see the menu bar "Choosing a Climb")

The transfer by train from climb to climb takes you through incredible countryside, which is by itself an experience. I offer a fast track climb for experienced well seasoned climbers in 6 days only. I do recommend a acclimation climb first hand to get to know each other, the climbing style to increase your changes to summit. That is optional but a recommendation, if one is acclimatized and very skilled the fast track will be fine.

We traditionally short rope our clients for safety and speed. Especially because the Matterhorn is a very busy mountain, we use the short rope technique for efficiency, speed and safety.

THE EIGER 3970 m.

The Eiger is my favorite guiding mountain. It has retained its mystique from the early 1930s of being the last big problem in the Alps. When you climb the ridge you look down to your left and see majestic glaciers and on the right you see the green meadows of Grindelwald. On the descent we get to look into the famous Eiger North Face.

The Eiger is similar to the Matterhorn. It is a rock climb, but it has more exposure and is less commonly traveled.

The climb is rated D with sections of Class V rock or S

We will need crampons and ice axes. The climb starts from the Eismeer train station at 3,159 meters on a glacier approach. The trail is very exposed to rock and icefall. The highest objective danger of the entire climb is here traversing under the Eigerjocher to the Mittellegi Hut at 3,355 meters. Once past the Eigerjocher, the climb is up class V rock ledges to easy traversing to the hut. From there, the climb proceeds along a knife edge ridge with rock climbing up to V with fixed ropes to hang on to if needed. Fixed ropes are located on the more difficult sections so we can belay and pull up on them. The summit ridge will have snow and ice towards the summit.

We will down climb to the train station, Eigergletscher, (West face) PD+ or traverse to the Jungfraujoch via Eigerjocher D with rock up to V depending on the current conditions. Because of the nature of the climb, once we have started, we do not have the option of turning around, and we are therefore committed to climbing over the top.

The climb takes about 4-5 hrs. to climb to the top and the same amount of time to down climb.

Conditions can change rapidly and there is always the possibility of rock fall and ice on the rock as we climb.

The downhill climbing will be climbing and not rappelling, so you have to be able to down climb grade 3-4.

We traditionally short rope our clients for safety and speed.

The Matterhorn

The Matterhorn is a very beautiful climb, which explains its popularity. As local guide, I know when and how to get around the crowds in the morning. The Matterhorn tends to be underestimated. It has to be taken seriously and requires good preparation for a safe, successful and fun climb.

The Matterhorn is mainly a rock climb, but it does have tricky sections, in particular on the top section called "The Roof" where we need crampons and ice axes.

The rating is AD – mostly rock up to III-, US 5.2-5.4 and ice to 50 degrees.

The climb takes about 4-5 hrs. up and the same amount of time to down-climb.

The hike to the Hoernli Hut takes about 2 hours, from where the climb starts in the morning. The route is mostly rock, starting 5 min. out of the hut. It entails scrambling and climbing interspersed with some fixed ropes on difficult sections to the Solvey Hut. Once we get on the ridge, we will climb on fixed ropes and mixed terrain on the north facing side to the shoulder up to the summit. The descent follows the same route down.

We will down-climb the mountain and not rappel. Therefore, you must be able to down-climb grade 3-4.(5.2-5.4)

We traditionally short rope our clients for safety and speed. Especially because the Matterhorn is a very busy mountain, we use the short rope technique for efficiency, speed and safety.

Day 1:

We meet around noon in Grindelwald and take the bus up to Unterer Lauchbühl, hike to the Gleckstein hut 3-4 hours.

Day 2:

Climb the Wetterhorn via Willi's ridge 4-5 hrs. up same down we will stay another night at the Gleckstein hut.

Day 3:

We have breakfast and hike down to Grindelwald where we take the train ride to Eismeer at the Jungfraujoch. Climb to the Mittelleggi Hut that takes about 2 hours.

Day 4:

Climb the Eiger via the Mittelleggi ridge and descend via the Eigerjocher or west face to Grindelwald. Overnight in a hotel in Interlaken.

Day 5:

Travel to Zermatt by train from Interlaken (4Hrs.). Hike up to the Hoernli Hut for about 2 hours.

Day 6:

Climb the Matterhorn (approx. 8 hours). I will have set time of 2 hours to the Solvay hut as a return point. Return to Zermatt and stay in a hotel overnight.

Day 7:

Travel to Chamonix by train. Climb to the Cosmique Hut, Tete Rosse or Gouter hut depending on hut availability and climbing conditions.

Day 8:

Climb Mt. Blanc and return to Chamonix, where we end the trip. Individual travel back where you need to go.

The order of the climb is best suited when climb from the lowest to the highest peak to avoid getting altitude sickness. If one of the climbs is not in condition or the weather is not good enough, I will do an alternative climb with you.

Recommendation!

If you fly in from overseas and or live at sea level, I recommend an acclimation climb first. Your chance of summitting is higher. The climb will be easier. I can coach you and get to know you better than just going for the summits.

8 - Day climb

Cost: CHF 7,500.00 (1 person) 1:1 (client to guide ratio) 2 guest with 2 guides on the Matterhorn and Eiger is CHF 4,500.00 each.

Includes: guide fee for 8 days, hut fees, 7 breakfasts and 5 dinners.

Not Included: Any travel expenses (train, buses and trams), drinks, equipment, lunch

Previous mountaineering experience required.

June - July – August- September

6 - Day climb

It is only possible to book this tour without a preparation climb if you have a strong recommendation from a guide, or you have a very strong climbing resume. This tour is very strenuous and difficult and is only for expert mountaineers with years of experience.

Cost: CHF 6,500.00 (1 person) 1:1 (client to guide ratio)

Includes: guide fee for 6 days, hut fees, 5 breakfasts and 3 dinners.

Not Included: Any travel expenses (train, buses and trams), drinks, equipment, lunch

Previous mountaineering experience required.

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