Bryant

Table of Contents

Chapter 1. Leave Louisville — Independence, Mo. — New-Mexican teamsters — Outfitting — Masonic celebration — Improbable rumors — Mormons — Indians — Marvellous stories.

Chapter 2. Appearance of the country — Vexatious difficulties of starting — First camp — Violent thunder-storm — Four-footed tragedian — First view of the prairie — Soil — Flowers — Emigrant camp — Frontier family — Thunder-storm on the prairie — Lodgings on the frontier — More of the Mormons — Rainbow on the prairie Indian Creek — Place of organization — Straying of cattle and horses — Election on the prairies — Shawnee Indians.

Chapter 3. Leave Indian Creek — "Catching up" — A corral — Droves of mules from New Mexico — Santa Fé traders returning — Dismal accounts of the journey — Leave the Santa Fé trail — Wild onions — Difficult crossings — Potawattomie Indian — Ex-governor Boggs and other emigrants come up — Reasons assigned for emigration — Solitude of the prairies — More Indians — First news of war with Mexico -- Signs of dissolution of the party — An adventure almost — Extreme heat — Sufferings of cattle ‘Division’ — Kansas River — A luxury in the wilderness — New-comers — Rumors of war confirmed.

Chapter 4. Methodist Mission on the Kansas — Soldier Creek — Lustration — A ruined Indian town — A rose in the wilderness -- Another division — Kansas Indian towns — Ki-he-ga-wa-chuck-ee — Prairie potato — Mountain trappers — Beauty of scenery and fertility of soil — Vermilion Creek — Brilliant meteor — Big Blue River — Prairie-pea — Legislation on the prairies.

Chapter 5. Terrible storm — More Legislation — Alcove spring — Honey — A death and funeral — Boat — launch — Blue River Rover — Soil and scenery along the Blue — Fresh graves — Pawnee country — Quarrels in camp — Withdrawal Of the Oregon emigrants Indian hunters — Indian appetites — More fighting — Antelopes — False buffalo chase — Blacksmithing on the plains.

Chapter 6. Sickness among the emigrants — Effects of travel and exposure upon the appearance and habits of our party — Method of travel — The Little Blue River — Change in the soil — A break — down — Platte River — Soil of the Platte bottom — Human bones — Buffalo bones — Post — offices — Islands of the Platte — Bois de Vache — Mackinaw boats — Prairie — dog town — Rocky Mountain hunters, and boatmen — The bluffs of the Platte — Immense fungi — First buffaloes — Men in search of a doctor — Disposition among emigrants to take large doses of medicine — Effects often fatal — Barbarous surgical operation — Distressing scene — Funeral — Wedding — Birth.

Chapter 7. Country becomes more arid and sterile — Return party from Oregon — Herds of buffalo — Dead oxen — Chalybeate spring at the ford of the Platte — Killing buffaloes — Buffalo meat — Resignation of Colonel Russell and other officers — Determination to change our mode of travel — Ash Hollow — General post-office. — Grave opened by wolves — Chimney Rock in the distance — Court-House Rock — Foetid water and tainted atmosphere — Quicksands — Near view of Court-House Rock — A man in a fright — Near view of Chimney Rock — Scenery at Chimney Rock — Horse-trading — Furious storm — Scott’s Bluff — First view of Rocky Mountains — Horse Creek — Fort Bernard — Fort Laramie — Sioux Indians — Beauty of the Sioux women — Sioux Lodges.

Chapter 8. Procession of the Sioux — Purchase of mules — Extreme high prices for coffee, sugar, tobacco, flour, etc. — Shooting-match with the Sioux Indians — A return party from California — Denunciation of the country by them — Resume the journey on pack-mules — Vexations of mule-packing — Canyon of the Platte — First appearance of wild sage — View of the Rocky Mountains — Another Oregon return party — Swarms of crickets — An extinct volcano — Green peas — A good supper — Frost in the mountains — Effects of earthquakes — Hunters and trappers: their numbers, habits, etc. — Celebration of the 4th of July — Gnats and mosquitoes — Joined by Mr. Buchanan — Alkaline lakes — Impure water, its effects — Sweet-water Mountains.

Chapter 9. Independence Rock — Sweetwater River — Devil’s Gate — A solitary traveller — Distant view of Wind River Mountains — Chalky Lakes — Deleterious effects of milk — Sickness in emigrating parties — Another return party from California — Buffalo-chase — Mortality among the oxen of the emigrants — Wolves in chase of diseased oxen — South Pass of the Rocky Mountains — Pacific Springs — Last view of the Atlantic slope — Jacob’s Tower — Little Sandy River — Troublesome visitors — The Mirage — Big Sandy River — Greenwood’s Cutoff — Curious incident — Snake Indian hunting-party.

Chapter 10. Green River — Terrific storm — Desolate scenery — Black’s Fork — Rainbow bluffs — Remarkable butte — Arrival at Fort Bridger — Messrs. Hastings and Hudspeth — Traders and trappers from Taos — Capt. Walker — Californian horses — Snow showers on the mountains — Resume our march by the new route via the Great Salt Lake — Cold weather — Ice in July — Bear River — Difficult passage through the mountains — Elephant statue.

Chapter 11. More extreme cold weather — Ogden’s Hole — Utah Indians — Weber River — Canons — Indian visitors — Disgusting practice — Great fires in the mountains — First view of the great Salt Lake — Salmon-trout — Great Salt Lake — A sunset on the lake — Broke my thermometer — Indian chase — Warm sulphur springs — More Indian visitors — Indian fruit-cake — Grasshopper jam — Mode of taking grasshoppers by the Indians.

Chapter 12. Utah Outlet and Lake — Enter the desert — Utah language — Col. Russell’s nine-shooter — Digger Indians — Utter sterility.

Chapter 13. March over the great Salt Desert — Preparations — Singular illusion — Volcanic debris — Distant view of the great Salt Plain — Utter desolation — The mirage — Gigantic phantoms — Fata Morgana — Spectral army — Tempest on the Salt Plain — Clouds of salt — Instinct of mules — Mule-race — Excessive thirst — Arrival at oasis, and spring — Buchanan’s well.

Chapter 14. The oasis — Anxiety respecting our animals — Prodigious tall grass — Deserted Indian huts — Old trail of lost wagons — Desert valley — Extinct volcanoes — Mountain spring — Elevated camp — Vast extent of the Salt Plain — Sublimity of scenery — Moonlight view — Sunrise — Indian picket or game-trap — Another oasis — Altercation — Extreme heat of the sun — Wells in the desert — More desert valleys — Stream of running water — View of Mary’s River, and valley — Indian signal-fires

Chapter 15. Mary’s river Indians — Their fleetness — Mary’s river — Unexpected and singular meeting — Applegate’s exploring party from Oregon — Energy of the emigrant population on the Pacific — More Indian visitors — Large herds of antelopes — Flora of Mary’s river — A merry Indian — Indian fish-trap — Extensive boiling springs — Rain in the desert — Large body of Indian — Indian foot-race with our mules.

Chapter 16. Refreshing rain — Dense smoky vapor — Scarcity of provisions — Horses giving out — Dismal journey — Soup of fresh-water shellfish — Agreeable meeting — Obtain a supply of provisions — Merry Digger Indian visitors — An Indian coil — Petrifactions — Sink of Mary’s river — Bitter waters — The desert between Mary’s and Truckee river — Toilsome march — Unexpected refreshment — Remarkable boiling springs.

Chapter 17. Mirage Phantom cataract — Signs of water — Truckee river — Insanity produced by apprehension and excitement — Enter the California mountains — Mountain forests — Mountain valley — Truckee river Indians — Cold nights — Mountain lake — Origin of the name of Truckee river and lake — Scenery of the Sierra Nevada — Log-cabin erected by emigrants in distress — Mountain raspberry — Pass of the Sierra — Uber valley — Spring in August — An attack by hornets — Beautiful encampment — Human skull.

Chapter 18. Bear Valley — Provisions exhausted — California quail — Manzanita — The pine-nut — Deep hollow — Evergreen oak — First view of the Sacramento Valley — A body of California Indians — Live-oak acorns — Arrive at Johnson’s — Indian dandy — Cheering and astonishing news from Mexico — Obtain food — A Californian newspaper.

Chapter 19. Soil of Johnson’s rancho — His crops — Price of flour — Soil of the Sacramento valley — Sinclair’s rancho — A white woman — Sutter’s Fort — New Helvetia — Interview with Captain Sutter — Reflections upon our journey — Table of distances from Independence to San Francisco.

Chapter 20. [The emigration of 1846 and the Donner Party]

Chapter 21. California Indians — Captain Sutter — Difficulties in making his first settlement in California — Laboring Indians — Propensity for gambling — Captain Sutter’s coin — Account of their games — Food of the Indians — Captain Sutter’s wheat crops in 1846 — Scarcity of flouring-mills — Waterpower — Hemp — Dine with Captain Sutter; description of the dinner — Oppressive impost-duties of the Mexican government — Indian rancherias — Indian orgies — Sacramento river — Salmon — New Helvetia — Indian sweat-house — Reported Indian invasion by the Walla-Wallas — Description of the Walla-Wallas.

Chapter 22. Geographical sketch of California — Its political and social institutions — Colorado River — Valley and river of San Joaquin — Former Government — Presidios — Missions — Ports and commerce.

Chapter 23. Sketch of the Bear revolution, and first conquest of California by the American troops — Capture of Lieut. De Arce — Capture of Sonoma, by Capt. Merritt and party, on the 14th of July — Proclamation of William B. Ide — Barbarous and brutal murder of Cowie and Fowler — Fourfingered Jack — Capt. Ford’s engagement with the Californians; defeat of the latter — Flight of De La Torre — Proclamations of Castro — Capt. Fremont joins the revolutionists at Sonoma, on the 25th of July — Commodore Sloat’s arrival in California — Raising of the U. S. flag at Monterey, San Francisco, Sonoma, and other places — Proclamation of Com. Sloat — Capt. Fremont occupies San Juan — Castro retreats to the south — Los Angeles captured by Com. Stockton — Com. Stockton’s proclamation.

Chapter 24. Resume my travels — Leave New Helvetia for San Francisco — Cosçumne River — Mickélemes River — Ford of the San Joaquin — Extensive plain — Tule marshes — Large droves of wild horses and elk — Arrive at Dr. Marsh’s — Vineyard — Californian grape — Californian wine — Aguardiénte — Mormon settlements on the San Joaquin — Californian beef — Cattle — Grasses of California — Horses — Breakfast — Leave Dr. Marsh’s — Arrive at Mr. Livermore’s — Comforts of his dwelling — Large herds of cattle — Sheep — Swine — Californian senora — Slaughtering of a bullock — Fossil oyster-shells — Skeleton of a whale on a high mountain — Arrive at mission of San José — Ruinous and desolate appearance of the mission — Pedlars — Landlady — Filth — Gardens of the mission — Fruit orchards — Empty warehouses and workshops — Foul lodgings.

Chapter 25. Armies of fleas — Leave the mission — Clover — Wild mustard — A carreta — Family travelling — Arrive at Pueblo de San José — Capt. Fisher — Description of the Pueblo — The embarcadero — Beautiful and fertile valley of the Pueblo — Absence of architectural taste in California — Town squirrels — Fruit garden — Grapes — Tropical fruits — Gaming-rooms — Contrast between Californian and American gamesters — Leave San José — Beautiful avenue — Mission of Santa Clara — Rich but neglected lands — Effects of a bad government — A senora on the road-side — Kindness of Californian women — Fast riding — Cruel treatment of horses — Arrive at the mission of San Francisco — A poor but hospitable family — Arrive at the town of San Francisco — W. A Leidesdorff, Esq., American vice-consul — First view of the bay of San Francisco — Muchachos and Muchachas — Capt. Montgomery — U. S. sloop-of-war, Portsmouth — Town of San Francisco; its situation, appearance, population — Commerce of California — Extortion of the government and traders.

Chapter 26. Climate of San Francisco — Periodical winds — Dine on board the Portsmouth — A supper party on shore — Arrival of Commodore Stockton at San Francisco — Rumours of rebellion from the south — Californian court — Trial by jury — Fandango — Californian belles — American pioneers of the Pacific — Reception of Commodore Stockton — Sitca — Captain Fremont leaves San Francisco for the south — Offer our services as volunteers.

Chapter 27. Leave San Francisco for Sonoma — Sonoma creek — "Bear men." — Islands in the bay — Liberality of "Uncle Sam" to sailors — Sonoma — Beautiful country — General Valléjo — Senora Valléjo — Thomas O. Larkin, U.S. Consul — Signs of rain — The seasons in California — More warlike rumours from the south — Mission of San Rafael — An Irish ranchero — Sausolito — Return to San Francisco — Meet Lippincott — Discomfort of Californian houses.

Chapter 28. Boat trip up the bay and the Sacramento to New Helvetia — An appeal to the alcalde — Kanackas — Straits of San Pueblo and Pedro — Straits of Carquinez — Town of Francisca — Feather-beds furnished by nature — Mouth of the Sacramento — Islands — Delaware Tom — A man who has forgotten his mother tongue — Salmon of the Sacramento — Indian fishermen — Arrive at New Helvetia.

Chapter 29. Disastrous news from the south — Return of Colonel Fremont to Monterey — Call for volunteers — Volunteer our services — Leave New Helvetia — Swimming the Sacramento — First fall of rain — Beautiful and romantic valley — Precipitous mountains — Deserted house — Arable land of California — Fattening qualities of the acorn — Lost in the Coast Mountains — Strange Indians — Indian women gathering grass-seed for bread — Indian guide — Laguna — Rough dialogue — Hunters’ camp — "Old Greenwood" — Grisly bear meat — Greenwood’s account himself — His opinion of the Indians and Spaniards — Retrace our steps — Severe storm — Nappa valley — Arrive at Sonoma — More rain — Arrive at San Francisco — Return to New Helvetia.

Chapter 30. Leave New Helvetia — Pleasant weather — Meet Indian volunteers — Tule-boats — Engagement between a party of Americans and Californians — Death of Capt. Burroughs and Capt. Foster — Capture of Thomas O. Larkin — Reconnaissance — San Juan Bautista — Neglect of the dead — Large herds of Cattle — Join Col. Fremont.

Chapter 31. California battalion — Their appearance and costume List of officers — Commence our march to Los Angeles — Appearance of the country in the vicinity of San Juan — Slaughter of beeves — Astonishing consumption of beef by the men — Beautiful morning — Ice — Salinas river and valley — Californian prisoners — Horses giving out from fatigue — Mission of San Miguel — Sheep — Mutton — March on foot — More prisoners taken — Death of Mr. Stanley — An execution — Dark night — Capture of the mission of San Luis Obispo — Orderly conduct and good deportment of the California battalion.

Chapter 32. Tremendous rain — Mission of San Luis Obispo — Gardens — Various fruits — Farm — Cactus tuna — Calinche — Pumpkins — Trial of Tortoria Pico — Procession of women — Pico’s pardon — Leave San Luis — Surf of the Pacific — Captain Dana — Tempestuous night — Mission of St. Ynes — Effects of drought — Horses exhausted — St. Ynes Mountain — View of the plain of Santa Barbara and the Pacific — A wretched Christmas-day — Descent of St. Ynes Mountain — Terrible storm — Frightful destruction of horses — Dark night What we are fighting for — Arrive at Santa Barbara — Town deserted.

Chapter 33. Santa Barbara — Picturesque situation — Fertility of the country — Climate — Population — Society — Leave Santa Barbara — Rincon — Grampus — Mission of St. Buenaventura — Fine gardens — Meet a party of mounted Californians — They retreat before us — Abundance of maize — Arrival of couriers from Com. Stockton — Effects of war upon the country — More of the enemy in sight — News of the capture of Los Angeles, by Gen. Kearny and Com. Stockton — Mission of San Fernando — The Maguey — Capitulation of the Californians — Arrive at Los Angeles — General reflections upon the march — Meet with old acquaintances.

Chapter 34. Military operations of General Kearny and Commodore Stockton — Their reports to the Secretaries of War and Navy — Battles of San Pasqual and San Gabriel.

Chapter 35. City of Angels — Gardens — Vineyards — Produce of the vine in California — General products of the country — Reputed personal charms of the females of Los Angeles — San Diego — Gold and quicksilver mines — Lower California — Bituminous springs — Wines — A Kentuckian among the angels — Missions of San Gabriel and San Luis Rey — Gen. Kearny and Com. Stockton leave for San Diego — Col. Fremont appointed Governor of California by Com. Stockton — Com. Shubrick’s arrival — Insurrection in the northern part of California suppressed — Arrival of Col. Cooke at San Diego.

Chapter 36. Leave Los Angeles for San Francisco — Don Andres Pico — A Californian returning from the wars — Domestic life at a rancho — Women in favour of peace — Hospitable treatment — Fandango — Singular custom — Arrive at Santa Barbara — Lost in a fog — Valley of the Salinas — Californians wanting Yankee wives — High waters — Arrive at San Francisco.

Chapter 37. Progress of the town of San Francisco — Capt. Dupont Gen. Kearny — The presidio — Appointed Alcalde — Gen. Kearny’s proclamation — Arrival of Col. Stevenson’s regiment — Horse-thief Indians — Administration of justice in California — Sale of lots in San Francisco.

Chapter 38. First settlement of the missionaries — Population — Characteristics of white population — Employments — Pleasures and amusements — Position of women — Soil — Grasses — Vegetable productions — Agriculture — Fruits — Cattle — Horses — Wild animals — Minerals — Climate — Flora — Water-power — Timber — Religion.